2004 Manual Transmission Help
#11
If the reservoir is full & not losing inventory, then maybe the master cylinder is going. Similar to brakes that sink to the floor under low/steady pressure, the master cylinder can leak back into its own reservoir so the fluid doesn't leak OUT.
First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.
After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.
After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
#13
If the reservoir is full & not losing inventory, then maybe the master cylinder is going. Similar to brakes that sink to the floor under low/steady pressure, the master cylinder can leak back into its own reservoir so the fluid doesn't leak OUT.
First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.
After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
First you need to rule out mis-adjusted pushrod at the pedal. I don't have that Helm book any more otherwise I'd give you details about the pedal-height adjustment.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder. You'll see the slave pushing the throw-out lever back & forth. The pushrod should move back & forth about 12mm.
After pumping, have your helper hold the clutch pedal down to the floor for a long time - like 5 minutes. The throw-out lever SHOULD NOT creep back towards the slave cylinder.
update: i drove it today and discovered the following:
after a long depress of the clutch pedal at a red light, the pedal stayed depressed to the floor when i released it. i had to pull it back by hand. then interminently the clutch felt weak then OK. it's the strangest thing.
the clutch cylinder was replaced two years. the symptom seems very similar, except this time, sporadic.
thoughts?
#20
If it were me, I would replace both. I know that my aftermarket slave cylinder on my 95 accord lasted 1-2 years (went out on the PA turnpike). The OEM replacement master cylinder was still on my car when I sold it.
The OEM ones lasted for about 10-12 years.
I know the OEM costs more, but they seem to be more reliable.
The OEM ones lasted for about 10-12 years.
I know the OEM costs more, but they seem to be more reliable.
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