2005 accord wont start
#4
Turn the key to the II position. Unplug each coil. Use a volt meter to check for 12V to the blk/wht wire to each coil and use a valve cover bolt (or any bare metal) for your ground. Each wire should have 12V.
If 12V is missing, check the 15 amp #2 fuse in the under dash fuse box.
If the fuse is good, swap the ignition coil relay (in the under dash fuse box) with the accessory socket relay if they are identical. When looking at the under dash fuse box, there are two row of relays, three on the top and four on the bottom. The top left is the ignition coil relay and the top right is the accessory socket relay.
If 12V is missing, check the 15 amp #2 fuse in the under dash fuse box.
If the fuse is good, swap the ignition coil relay (in the under dash fuse box) with the accessory socket relay if they are identical. When looking at the under dash fuse box, there are two row of relays, three on the top and four on the bottom. The top left is the ignition coil relay and the top right is the accessory socket relay.
#5
To add to PAhonda test, if there is ~12 volts at the Blk/Wht wire; then touch the voltmeter’s red lead again on the Blk/Wht wire; but, this time touch the voltmeter’s black lead to one of the ignition coil's Blk harness wire for ground. Is there still voltage and is it about the same voltage measurement? --This is to check the ground source from ground G101 to the coils.
Ignition should be ON in the tests for voltage, as the ECM/PCM has to send a relay control ground signal to the ignition coil relay for the relay coil to energize and allow power (voltage) to all the ignition coils.
If there isn't ~12 volts at the Blk/Wht wire; and under-dash Fuse No. 2 (15A) and the ignition coil relay are okay, then the issue may be with the ECM/PCM or wire from ECM to the ignition coil relay.
Ignition should be ON in the tests for voltage, as the ECM/PCM has to send a relay control ground signal to the ignition coil relay for the relay coil to energize and allow power (voltage) to all the ignition coils.
If there isn't ~12 volts at the Blk/Wht wire; and under-dash Fuse No. 2 (15A) and the ignition coil relay are okay, then the issue may be with the ECM/PCM or wire from ECM to the ignition coil relay.
#8
Have you checked for engine codes? Post any codes on here. They start with the letter P and have four numbers, like P1234.
How are you checking for spark?
Was there any work done on this car right before the problem started?
If your volt meter has a diode function, it will beep when you touch the leads. If you have this function, you can connect on lead to ground, then probe the other wire going to the coil. Try to start the car, and listen for the beeps. A test light would help.
Also, check all of your fuses.
How are you checking for spark?
Was there any work done on this car right before the problem started?
If your volt meter has a diode function, it will beep when you touch the leads. If you have this function, you can connect on lead to ground, then probe the other wire going to the coil. Try to start the car, and listen for the beeps. A test light would help.
Also, check all of your fuses.
#9
okay guys heres what I did I found the ecm/pcm and unplugged every thing and then plugged them back in and now the car starts and runs like it did the only thing now is the check engine light wont go off we tried to reset it but it wont go away but hey the car is running