1) Make sure all electrical itmes are OFF.
2) Reset the ECM/PCM w/ HDS (you will need a generic scanner to reset the ECM)
3) Turn the ignition switch ON, and wait 2 secs.
4) Start engine and hold at 3K rpm w/o load until radiator fans come on or until coolant temp reaches 194F.
5) Let engine idle for 5 mins w/ throttle fully closed.

Hi TexasHonda.. Thank you so much for the input. I will try out this procedure and get back on the outcome.

Quick question, if I do not have a generic scanner or HDS to reset the ECM, can i just unhook the negative cable on my battery for a minute or so?

 

The Honda manual did not say anything about disconnecting battery to reset ECM. You can try googling for a procedure would be my only suggestion.

good luck

 

I used to have a 2003-2006 Helm book & I think I remember it saying that disconnecting the battery did NOT clear OBD-2 error codes. But maybe it does clear things like idle adaptation??

 

Hi guys, I finally found the time to try out the ILP on the car a few days ago. So far it went GREAT!! The idling was perfect and the hesitations before moving off were nowhere in sight.... I was just about to do a write up on the forum to tell you guys about the success I had......

But then, yesterday, THE IDLING STARTED TO DETERIORATE WHILE I WAS AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT and when i step on the accelerator, the RPM dipped and went to 300 RPM before going up and moving off!!

Let me give you the scenario I was in: The day was scorching hot and I had been driving in the city (stopping at a lot of traffic lights) for about 2 hours or so... The car was running at 176F-194F and the air conditioning was ON.

So this was what I did: I turned OFF the aircon and wound down the windows..

After a few minutes more of driving and at the next traffic stop, THE PROBLEM WAS GONE!! The idling was back at 600-650RPM and I had no problems moving off!

Could it be that there's something wrong with my aircon motor or something?? If so, why doesn't the problem surface the minute I switch on the air conditioning? I realized it will only start acting up after some time on the road and after a few traffic stops, when its idling..

Oh and another thing, after doing the Idle Learning Procedure, I realized that my petrol consumption was affected.. Used to get 29 miles per gallon of petrol, but after the ILP, it went down to 21 miles per gallon!! What does it mean guys? Did the ILP had anything to do with it?

 

Does IACV compensate correctly most of the time, holding idle speed at constant value as AC cycles on/off? If idle speed sags when load is added, the IACV is not compensating for some reason.

You may have a faulty idle air control valve (valve movement sticking or weak solenoid). It may be working sometimes, but under hot conditions may be failing causing lack of idle air bypass to increase idle under load (AC on).

Note, ECM cannot detect a sticking valve. Also, the ECM will detect a shorted or open idle air control valve solenoid and set a code, but probably not an internal winding short that simply reduces solenoid strength to throw the valve.

It's not surprising that idle was stable when everything is off. This reduces variable load so base idle speed is maintained.

Change in mileage is not likely related to idle problem, IMO. It may take more time for ECM to optimize fuel metering.

good luck

 

Thanks TexasHonda... So its settled then that my IACV is the culprit. How do I get my hands on a new one? Can u direct me to a reliable website that sells one?

For your info, I am living in Asia and my country doesn't sell the IACV by itself. The suppliers here claims it comes as a complete set with the throttle body and the throttle position sensor... ( I think they just wanna make a quick buck coz the whole assembly cost a bomb! ).... Is there any way I can just the IACV on the net?

Thanks so much for your help....

 

check ebay auction 110616065709. Ships worldwide.

Depending on effort involved, I would remove/examine the IACV carefully. Does the solenoid throw when 12V is applied? If not perhaps there's still some stubborn deposits blocking movement. I would also check the voltage pulses are getting to the IACV to actuate. Poor connection might not be detected but cause weak valve movement.

I am not a professional, just an amatuer w/ some knowledge who enjoys diagnostics and repair.

In other words, make sure this is your problem before ordering parts.

good luck

 

Hi TexasHonda, I hav done all the checks that you recommended and everything seems to work fine. I even check the throttle position sensor and its showing 0%, which is what it should be at idle. The funny thing is, the idle will be just fine when its stationary and idling, even with AC on and all. It will just come once in awhile when i am driving, sometimes its doesn't come at all.. But when it does, I am always in the middle of traffic and I cant be stopping right there to do my checks... And when i get home to my parking lot, the idling would have gone back to normal..

I think the safest bet for me now is to get a new IACV. I went to check at hondapartsnow,com and I found it under parts number 16400-RAA-A63, which is the complete assembly of the throttle body.

I just need the IACV, and they have it!!!... Its under part number 16022-RAA-A01 (Valve Set, Rotary Air Control) and 16456-PND-A01 (Gasket, Rotary Air Control Valve).....Only bummer is they don't ship it to the country I am in.. They only ship to the 50 US states.

Could you perhaps get them for me and ship them to me? Since you are in Texas.. (I presume).. I would bear all the cost and the shipping. Or i could buy it online and send the item to your US address, and you could UPS it to me?

 

Suggest looking for someone that will ship abroad. Here's one I found (yourhondaparts^com).

regards

 

OK... Thanks so much TexasHonda for your helpful advice...God Bless you.