Hi, newbie here:

I have a '06 Accord EX, purchased new in late '05, automatic tranny. I drive a lot of freeway miles for work and back (average 80 miles a day) and a monthly trip to the Bay Area (approx. 1,000 miles round trip). I have almost 143K original miles on this car and really no major repair or performance issues to speak of.

But I took the car in for an alignment, the tech says that the left side rear wheel bearings are shot and showed me the difference between the other side (fairly quiet), you can a hear a slight rubbing noise like beargins are dried out.

He asked if I noticed any sounds coming from the tires or rear passenger seats, I said yes, like I was running low air tire pressure (but they have been around 33-34 lbs. at all times) or low humming during the car motion of moving but stops when stopped.

Question: the dealership wants $210 for each rear wheel hub assembly with the bearings inside plus $235 for labor to change out the two rear wheel hub bearings.

-- I saw at Auto Zone, I could buy the Timken made rear wheel hub assembly for about $110 and think it's a easy DIY? Or is it??

-- Is there anything to know before I start to take the wheels off? Is it a straight yank them out and slap in the new unit?

-- Need any sort of impact driver? (which I don't have)

I think the only thing I need to worry about is the removal of rear brake calipers and pads, which was replaced about 10K ago.

Hope it's an easy fix.

 

Should be pretty easy. Don't need an impact driver, but you'll need a torque wrench.
With only 10k since the brakes were done, that stuff should come apart pretty easy.
Timken makes good stuff.



You might mangle the cap (#5) taking it off. That's kinda OK as long as it still seals out dirt.

The spindle nut (#37) will be staked into a groove in the spindle. You'll need to hammer something (nail?) into the groove to wedge the nut back out so you can remove it. Probably you'll want a breaker bar & maybe a pipe.

Make sure the car is supported real solid. You don't want to knock it down off the jack.

I don't have the Helm book any more that covers 2006, but I'm sure there's a torque spec for that spindle nut. You have to apply the right amount of pre-load so your new bearing has OK lifespan.

 

Hi Jim:

Thanks for the diagram pictures, sure will come in handy.

I did find something on a 2003 Accord but don't think much changed for the 2006 models.

http://www.ehow.com/how_6509064_repl...03-accord.html

Yea, but I could not find the proper torque settings anywhere.

 

I used to have a Helm shop manual for 2003-2006 and there wasn't any difference over that span of years. I sold that book after selling the car, & I don't remember the torque.

I've occasionally needed an impact driver (like a screwdriver-handle that you hit with a hammer) to remove the rotor screws #39.

 

Ah, not a problem, I'll stop by the "local auto library" when I'm at Auto Zone (aka their open Chilton or Helm's books, lol) went placing my wheel bearings order.

Good idea on the impact driver, I'm sure those things are on solid, I'll also shoot some PB Blaster ahead of time, hope that will help it.

Do you think using a breaker bar might work just as well?

 

Here's information for removal of the hub bearing unit, which includes recommended torque of the spindle nut.

 

Thank you redbull!

 

Wow, thanks a lot!! Makes my day.....

Thanks again to both of you for the 411.

 

Well, it's past 11 pm. PST....some updates....

-- need to get that impact driver, those screws were tough to get out and remains stuck.

-- I need to go to the Honda dealer to buy a new spindle nut, I'm sure I can re-use it again, but it states 22 x 1.5mm nut, so I had someone go to Wallymart at 10:20 p.m. (closes at 11) to get a 22mm socket....it doesn't work??!! Anyways, the reason I'm going to the dealer's parts dept. is to buy a new spindle nut and bring that to Auto Zone to see what size socket will properly fit it.

-- Also, while at the dealer, I might see if they sell the TWO 8 x 1.25mm bolt that's needed to separate the hub from the brake disc.

-- I had a hard time to remove the calipers this time...after taking off the two 14mm bolts and releasing the E-brake it would not come off?

But I just need to buy the parts above on Saturday and work on the car come Monday (my day off), as I need to go out of town this weekend.

Using my friend's car since I don't want to put any extra stress on those bearings, even tho it's only been about 200 miles since I started hearing the noise.

 

A couple of options/suggestions:

You can drill the rotor retaining screw heads off, remove the rotor and turn the remaining pieces out w/ vise grips. They are not necessary to be replaced, so you could just leave the stubs in place.

A 7/8" socket will also work for 22mm, slightly larger but OK.

Only two bolts hold the caliper in place. You did remove the caliper shield?

A special tool (autozone, et al rental perhaps?) is req'd to rotate the caliper piston back to zero. If you're not replacing pads, it probably only needs 1-2 rotations to allow pad gap to clear new rotor. I've used a chisel to turn the piston, but vowed never again last time I did this.

good luck