I recently bought a 2006 Accord with 112k on it, this car came with a Dealer installed KARR security gadget on it. Car was working fine but master switch had a bad child protection button so windows wouldn’t work. I replaced it with one from switch doctor and then all was working well. Car came with one Original Honda key remote and was working fine too. I researched online how to remove KARR security alarm and it seemed easy enough so I clipped the Alarms Smaller wires where they were Connected with Quick splice connectors into the factory harness, I just left the quick splice connectors still connected to harness wires and clipped the alarms wires. The two larger gauge orange wires From the alarm were spliced into a Larger gauge factory wire and from my research I knew the car wouldn’t start until this wire was reconnected to itself. Now that I’m all done now no buttons at all work on the drivers door master switch and none of the power windows work at all. The front passenger door Lock button will work all power door Locks except for the drivers door. I tried the battery cable jumper wire reset but that didn’t help, and I tried reprogramming key remote and that didn’t work either, I even put the old master switch back on the car and that didn’t help with reprogramming the key, remote has a new battery too and light does come on when you press the buttons on the remote. So I can start and drive the car with no problems but it sucks not having the windows, power door locks and key remote not working. I was wondering if the multiplex might have gone out. I’d like to see if I could fix it with Some help from you electrical wizards out there. Looking back maybe I should have just well enough alone but I didn’t want this Cheap KARR alarm Gizmo breaking on me down the road and leaving me stranded somewhere. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciate. I want to leave taking it to the dealership as my last resort.

Jesse

 

Have you checked your fuses?

#21 7.5A
#7 10A
#8 20A
#27 20A

These are fuses that power the power window switch and diver's MICU. If you have a test light, you can quickly test every fuse to see if you blew a fuse when you were removing the security system.

 

Thanks for replying PAhonda These are the fuses that I checked and are not blown, I forgot to put this into original post that I had already checked these fuses. Also i just noticed that no matter what door is open, the dash door light shows that all doors are open, even when Just one door is open. But light goes out when all doors are closed. Boy, I did a number on this one.

 

How about #21 and #7?

Since you were working with wiring, try testing for voltage on the top post of each fuse in the engine bay and interior fuse box. You can use a volt meter or even better if you have a test light.

See this video:

 

Have you rechecked the wiring to make sure everything was put back correctly and still together. I don't see why you would have an issue electrically if you disconnected the battery before removing the aftermarket alarm. Also was the master switch used or bought new. Unless you were messing with the cables while switching it out it should be good.

 

With a voltmeter, you can check for power at the connector to the driver door master switch. The wires at cavity terminal nos. 10 and 15 should be hot at all times. Terminal no. 20 should have power with the ignition switch in the ON position (car not running).

 

Yep, those need to be checked.

 

Thanks so much for helping me out Redbull-1
i checked these out and terminals 10 and 15 are not hot with key off, or not even with key on.
and terminal no 20 is hot with the key on.
I also discovered of fuses 24-25-26 and 27 p/w fuses, 27 is the only one that’s hot, other 3 are not hot and not blown

 

I checked fuses under the hood and these were not hot and not blown either

 

#21 & #7 are good and hot