2007 Accord V6 EX AT

The "DRL" dash light has decided to make a prolonged appearance. The light is on when the car is running WITHOUT the low-beams on. When the low-beams are turned on, the DRL light turns off. Since the DRLs are run from high-beams, the high-beams themselves do not work at all.

After much searching and study of online resources, I've come to realize that the issue is probably due to faulty soldering in the DRL module. All sources point to it as a fairly common issue. My previous checks concluded that the high-beams (filaments) are intact.

I've done what I could think to do to come up with a (free) solution for first locating then finally fixing the issue. A Youtube video shows a fix of the module but is from a '97 Accord. The innards of the under-steering wheel-compartment appear very different. I eventually bought a Haynes Auto Repair Manual to match my car to no avail.

Long story short: I have no idea where this DRL module is located to find the circuit board for DIY fixes. I was looking in the same area as that before-mentioned Youtube video and several pictures/diagrams. Sadly, all VISUAL resources are for pre-7th Gen. models. I can't find that tell-tale blue plug and gray box.

Where is this module located? What is the best way to locate then remove it?

 

The North American Accords uses the halogen high beams on a low brightness setting for DRL. The DRL system includes the multiplex integrated control unit (MICU), the left and right high beam headlights, and the DRL indicator. The DRL operates with the ignition switch ON (II), the headlights off (headlight switch OFF or in the parking position), and the parking brake released.

When the DRL are on, the MICU turns the high beam headlight control circuit on and off (duty cycle), which provides a reduced voltage (approximately 6-8 volts) to the high beam headlights (via the No. 3 fuse in the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box); the high beam headlights come on with reduced brightness.

I would check the number 3 (10A) fuse in the driver's side under-dash fuse/relay box first. If that is okay, check some of the other fuse related to the lights in the under-dash fuse box and the under-hood fuse box. It may also be the high-beam bulbs, even though the filaments appear intact like you stated.

Fyi: The driver's side MICU is part of the driver-side fuse/relay box and is replaced as a whole. I doubt this is your problem though.

 

I did omit that I had checked the fuses second to checking the bulbs themselves. However, I just checked them again (both under-dash and under-hood) and everything appears fine.

I've had a bulb 'go out' after having some bodywork post-deer collision, but the DRL indicator light never came on. That particular high-beam just remained off while the other side worked correctly. That particular issue has me thinking the bulbs are okay just by looking at them.

Admittedly, that DRL light has been on since our last Michigan winter, so it only made sense, based on the resources I had found, that the issue was due to the known issue with soldering cracking in cold weather.

I don't know if this puts me back at the beginning, or if it leads me into a non-DIY situation where I'm shilling out a buttload of cash to replace the unit.

Any other advanced tips on what I should check/recheck/look for?

 

So on an 07 or 2007 accord, it looks more like a metal box, on left side of steering wheel under dash, connected with a 10mm hex bolt. To see images, go to ebay and look up: 38260-SDA-AO11.
I pulled mine out, and got the circuit board, but didn't see any obvious bad joints. Went ahead, heated up some questionable joints, and I think for a second my DRL indicator light went off, but my daylights weren't on. Also had a really cold winter here, so am hoping that by ordering a new one (used on ebay), maybe it will solve the problem. The honda price of a new one is $88. Used is $35.
Same thing, First one daytime running light stopped working, then DRL indicator lights stays on unless I turn on the low beams, high beams stopped working. Fuses are fine, bulbs are too.
If you actually get this, did you fix yours? Here are what the DRL relay/module innards look like since they are nowhere to be found on the interwebs. The tabs on the metal box break off, but it was the only way I could pry the circuit board out. I confirmed this is the right thing by turning on the car with box unplugged (no DRL indiciator light on).
Was hoping this would work:
or...
http://www.nyx.net/~smanley/hondadrlfix/

 

t



try checking engine fuse box numbers 3 and 5. Originally i wasn’t getting any power