I did a search and was able to determine that the 2008 accord requires a special "cube" type tool to compress the cylinders when replacing brake pads. Does my 2007 require the same tool? I've always used a C-clamp to do this job with my other vehicles. Any help greatly appreciated.

Scott

 

You need to twist the piston rather than push it straight in. That's because of the handbrake auto-adjust mechanism. If you press it straight in with a C-clamp you'll damage that stuff.

But you can use any number of makeshift tools. The piston face has a slot, so you can use a huge screwdriver, or use a putty-knife as if it was a screwdriver. Opened tips of needle-nose pliers, or anything that can engage that slot. All you have to do is spin the piston while using moderate pressure to press it in.

Watch the rubber dust boot so it doesn't wrinkle, twist, & tear.

 

OK, thanks for the tip. I was planning to work on it this weekend and wanted to be prepared. Is this one of those jobs it pays to have an extra set of hands around? Sounds like I will need to still use a C-clamp for the "moderate pressure" and use a putty knife/screwdriver to do the twisting motion. Not sure I am "man enough" to just use brute force on the putty knife/screwdriver alone to foce the piston inward?

 

Don't use a c-clamp, because you could damage the caliper as Jim said. That piston will screw in.

O'Reilly auto parts had a loaner tool that worked on my car. You can also buy the cube where one of the faces fits perfectly into the slot(s). You can use a ratchet and get more torque to make the job easier. IIRC, the tool was less than $10.

 

Rather than mess anything up I think I'll spend the $10 and do it properly. I expect to keep the car a long time so it would be a good investment. thanks for the help.

 

Yeah, the tool is cheap. Just hand-pressure with a screwdrive or putty knife has always worked OK. One day on the discount-closeout table I found a HUGE screwdriver with a blade about an inch wide. That works real well. If you get the cube tool, just press while turning.

 

Of course this is for the REAR pads, correct?

 

I have always used needle nose vice grips and adjusted them outward until they have a nice spread. Just adjust the piston in until it stops threading inward. If you just keep turning after that the parking brake will have lots of free play at the handle. The only part I found a little awkward is the sliders boots if you remove them they have to seated back in their bores.