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2008-2012 2.4 Accord P0339, Long Cranking, Starters, Etc.

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  #1  
Old 02-18-2022 | 04:56 PM
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Default 2008-2012 2.4 Accord P0339, Long Cranking, Starters, Etc.

Hello All,
I am hoping now to be able to share my recent experience with those of you who are having any of the above issues in this thread's title and, hopefully, help resolve your issue. My 2010 Accord 2.4 was the first Honda I have ever owned. I purchased it in December of 2019 with only 50k, which, at the time seemed like a deal given the age of the car. It started and ran fine until the fall of 2020, when I would occasionally have a lack of starter engagement. I later determined that the starter solenoid was to blame. I purchased a new TYC starter and installed it about a year ago (Feb. 2021). After that job, the starts were consistently reliable, but I did notice that a warm start would often trigger a longer cranking interval. Nevertheless, it always started, so I didn't pay much attention to it. Fast forward a year later, and I noticed the warm starts were getting longer until one day the longest start I observed resulted in a CEL and VSA light. I got the vehicle home, but I could tell that there was an issue, as now it would stumble a little after 2500 rpm's. After letting it cool down, I started it again, and the VSA light was out but the CEL was now flashing (misfire detected). After using my basic scanner, I learned the ECU had a P0339 (Crank Angle sensor signal intermittent) as a permanent code and P0302 (Cyl. 2 misfire) as pending.

Considering what many have said previously about aftermarket starters and potentially triggering a P0339, I bought a rebuilt Mitsuba starter from a rebuilder. I then installed it, but it didn't clear the P0339 code. Next, I purchased a Beck-Arnley Crank Angle sensor (which a re-boxed Denso sensor) for a little over $40. I then installed that -- again with no success. As a last resort, I tried doing the Crank position relearn as outlined in the service manual. Since I don't have that good of a scanner, and furthermore detest dealerships for the prices they charge, I used the procedure without the Honda-specific scanner they use. At first, I was skeptical that it was going to work. I started it up and made sure it was completely warmed up. It was in "limp mode," and I could barley get it over 40 mph, but I figured I would give it a try. I found a long road with not much traffic and brought it to 2500 rpms and took my foot off the gas and let it go down to 1000 rpms. I did this several times and then drove it home and turned it off. I then turned the key to the "ON" position, waited 30 seconds, and noticed the CEL flashed -- which told me it recognized the re-learn. I started it again and, to my surprise, the code was cleared, and the engine power was completely restored. I have now been driving the vehicle to work for a week without further issue.

At this point, I cannot verify that using an aftermarket starter will induce a P0339. Given that I only spent $130 to fix the issue, I consider that a win on any day, even if I didn't need to replace both the starter and CAS. I am leaning toward the theory that in my case the CAS was progressively failing, which was revealed especially when the engine was warmed up. The only thing I do notice about the OE starter vs. the aftermarket one is that the OE has a much smoother engagement. Well, I will stop here. I hope my experience here can help someone else. It does prove one thing: the issue can be fixed and for only a little money.
Mark
 

Last edited by mdharris11; 02-18-2022 at 04:59 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-23-2023 | 09:40 AM
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Default A correct type of oem starter motor is the solution

I had a similar p0339 issue with the wrong type of starter and fixed it after replacing it with the correct oem one.
 
  #3  
Old 09-06-2024 | 01:36 PM
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I'm betting the 0339 code came back. Mine is still on...I'm giving up on it.
 
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Old 09-06-2024 | 03:49 PM
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Actually, that code never came back after I changed the crank angle sensor and did the re-learn procedure. It has been almost three years since I did that work, What have you done to your so far?
Mark
 
  #5  
Old 09-06-2024 | 05:52 PM
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I've replaced the starter a year ago with an OEM starter. Replaced cam shaft sensor with OEM. Replaced battery with the kind the manual says. Replaced the Crankshaft position sensor THREE times. Replaced a few plugs. Replaced an 02 sensor since the old one was taped on...upstream. Had the TSB updated on ECM. and I'm sure there's more but I get sick just thinking about all the money and tows I've paid in the last year and a half trying to get this issue fixed. Today it got towed back to the dealership for the same 0339 code and was in limp mode AGAIN.
 
  #6  
Old 09-07-2024 | 09:23 AM
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Hi,
Boy that sounds like a nightmare -- I understand why you feel that way. Do you happen to know if when the CAS was changed, was the re-learn procedure done? What I do know is that in my case when I got the P0339 code, the re-learn was the only
way I could clear the code from the ECU. I actually think any time that CAS is replaced, that needs to be done so that the ECU knows when to control fuel, spark, etc.
Mark
 
  #7  
Old 09-07-2024 | 09:31 AM
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Yes. The relearn procedure has to be done each time the ckp sensor is changed out.
 
  #8  
Old 09-07-2024 | 09:33 AM
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I also left them a list of things to check yesterday when my car was towed over there. 1. check both cables, connections and wiring on battery. 2. check alternator output, 3. check charge of battery, cold crank amps, voltage drop test. Do PCM relearn and measure signal from ckp sensor. I really don't know what else to check. Oh, I also told them to replace the PGM-FI main relay last week and they did that but same 0339 code yesterday.
 
  #9  
Old 09-07-2024 | 12:42 PM
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This almost has to be a wiring or programming issue. It is possible that your pulse plate has some damage or less likely the new sensor has an issue.

If the sofware and calibrations are good, then they should monitor the misfire counter on their scanner. The should use the scanner to monitor the crank sensor and I believe they can monitor crank sensor noise.

I'd ask them to connect an oscillloscope at the crank sensor for the feed voltage and the output to actually measure the signal and hopefully compare to a known good signal. I'd do the same at the PCM on the same wires to see if there is a change in the signal.
 
  #10  
Old 09-07-2024 | 12:53 PM
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well, this is the 3rd ckp sensor so they all can't be bad. I haven't been able to reach them since my car got towed over there yesterday morning. So, I can't talk to the
guy in service that knows this car very well. I imagine he's mad at me for making a list for him. Thanks for all your input.
 


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