2008 V6 Accord Transmission Issues
#31
As to the question posed about the difference in fluids, it has to do with fiction modifier additives in the factory Honda fluid. I can tell you from experience that using dextron will work temporarily, but loses potency quickly and will start slipping typically in 10k or less. If you stop driving the first time it gives symptoms you may be able to flush it with Honda DW1 and save it but if you tried to continue driving it, it will likely have roasted the clutches due to low pressure. There may be other fluids that will work, but they aren't going to be significantly cheaper or better so unless there simply isn't a Honda dealer local to you I would always use DW1.
#32
I'm not sure where you get your information shipo, I've been a Honda mechanic for over a dozen years. While I appreciate the evidence that every other aspect of this transmission is much more reliable than the previous design, the filter not being serviceable was the killer of the BMXA in the 01-05 civics and the BAXA in the 98-02 Accord. I've rebuilt dozens of each of those, and can tell you a serviceable filter is the ideal, which is why I install an inline in any Honda that doesn't have a serviceable filter from the factory.
#33
I understand that you disagree with my assessment, though you have stated no reason to. Ultimately it was a cyclical problem between clutch wear and filter clogging, but if you can stop one with a serviceable filter it would slow the other. The transmissions finally stopped because of a lack of fluid pressure in almost every case which was due to the clogged filter. When they came in you could pull the return line loose and it would barely dribble fluid, tear them down and rebuild, no clogs except the filter. The fact is wear is inevitable, thus stuff in the fluid which is caught by the filter is inevitable and doesn't drain out with the fluid. I wouldn't change my oil without changing the filter though there are less wear items in the motor than the transmission. Ultimately though, you are welcome to your opinion where or not you can provide any evidence to back it up.
#34
I understand that you disagree with my assessment, though you have stated no reason to. Ultimately it was a cyclical problem between clutch wear and filter clogging, but if you can stop one with a serviceable filter it would slow the other. The transmissions finally stopped because of a lack of fluid pressure in almost every case which was due to the clogged filter. When they came in you could pull the return line loose and it would barely dribble fluid, tear them down and rebuild, no clogs except the filter. The fact is wear is inevitable, thus stuff in the fluid which is caught by the filter is inevitable and doesn't drain out with the fluid. I wouldn't change my oil without changing the filter though there are less wear items in the motor than the transmission. Ultimately though, you are welcome to your opinion where or not you can provide any evidence to back it up.
FWIW, I had a BAXA in my Accord, after 200,000 miles (with regular ATF changes with Honda ATF), it was still operating perfectly well when I donated the car a little over a year ago.
#35
I am not sure why you think filtration will prevent clutch wear, the fact is, the filter gets clogged from clutch material, most often due to lack of maintenance or by the use of incorrect ATF formulations. I stand by my argument, the lifetime filter was not why many BAXA transmissions failed.
FWIW, I had a BAXA in my Accord, after 200,000 miles (with regular ATF changes with Honda ATF), it was still operating perfectly well when I donated the car a little over a year ago.
FWIW, I had a BAXA in my Accord, after 200,000 miles (with regular ATF changes with Honda ATF), it was still operating perfectly well when I donated the car a little over a year ago.
As to why I think filtration will prevent clutch wear, I already started that it has to do with the restricting fluid pressure from the clogged filter. When the pressure is lower then less pressure is applied to the clutches allowing them to slip which causes further wear which causes further clogs.
At this point I will rest my case: I have a dozen years of experience with hundreds of these cars, many of which I have rebuilt the transmissions on after diagnosed. If you want to base your opinion on one car that only made it to 200k miles and your limited experience with it you are welcome to, I simply agree to disagree with you.
#36
Ahhh, what you don't know is I'm an engineer and have worked as forensic engineer for three different makers. True, I only used one car in my example; but I've been hands on in the lab for thousands of failures.
#37
Well, I knew by your approach that you were an engineer I was simply asking you to give me your credentials. Thank you for finally doing so, though you stated that you worked for three different manufactures, was one of them Honda? I know thier transmissions are much different engineering from any other car manufacturer that I'm aware of.
#38
Well, I knew by your approach that you were an engineer I was simply asking you to give me your credentials. Thank you for finally doing so, though you stated that you worked for three different manufactures, was one of them Honda? I know thier transmissions are much different engineering from any other car manufacturer that I'm aware of.
#39
Again, said like a true engineer. I appreciate your input and your different perspective on the matter shipo. Good discussion.
#40
This sucks
Hey guys, I know this is an old thread but it left an unanswered question. The 8th gen transmission filter is a canister type that is unfortunately located behind the torque converter thus requiring transmission removal to access. I don't pretend to know why the engineers decide that was a good idea, but I use an inline filter from the 4 cylinder model inserted in the cooler line.
I paid 4K for a 2008 Honda accord EX-L V6 and the rear bumpers paint is all messed up flaking because of previous owners rear end accident.. 220,000 miles.
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11-02-2009 08:32 AM