2013 Accord L4 VVT actuator and Timing chain
#1
08-19-2020, 05:05 PM
2013 Accord L4 VTC actuator and Timing chain
I know that the timing chain is not serviceable and it is good for the lifetime of the vehicle. I have done a lot research for the VTC actuator and timing chain, but it seems that it mostly covers the 8th Gen Accord.
I have a 2013 Honda Accord Sport 4 cylinder K24W1 engine, CVT at 115,000 miles. I decided to change the VTC actuator due to the horrible cold start rattle noise, and decided to replace the timing chain along with the chain guides and chain tensioner. Basically replaced with new parts.
The crankshaft was set at TDC along with the camshaft timing marks. I was able to remove the intake camshaft and replace the new VTC actuator following the service manual.
Once the intake camshaft was placed, I started working with the new timing chain and placing it around the camshaft gears (note: these camshaft do not have any holes on the other side where you can insert the camshaft lock pin). The gold chain links were placed in the appropriate punched out marks on the camshaft gears, and crankshaft. See pictures attached in PDF as "Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing".
Once the chain is set and the tensioner is placed, there is slack on the chain when I rotate the crank. I am not sure if this is normal, but I removed the chain and installed it twice. Can anyone help?
Video is too large to post, but once it completes a cycle there is slack. Thank you in advance.
"Solved" - I ended up using channel locks to squeeze the chain guides and this gave another click on the chain tensioner.
I have a 2013 Honda Accord Sport 4 cylinder K24W1 engine, CVT at 115,000 miles. I decided to change the VTC actuator due to the horrible cold start rattle noise, and decided to replace the timing chain along with the chain guides and chain tensioner. Basically replaced with new parts.
The crankshaft was set at TDC along with the camshaft timing marks. I was able to remove the intake camshaft and replace the new VTC actuator following the service manual.
Once the intake camshaft was placed, I started working with the new timing chain and placing it around the camshaft gears (note: these camshaft do not have any holes on the other side where you can insert the camshaft lock pin). The gold chain links were placed in the appropriate punched out marks on the camshaft gears, and crankshaft. See pictures attached in PDF as "Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing".
Once the chain is set and the tensioner is placed, there is slack on the chain when I rotate the crank. I am not sure if this is normal, but I removed the chain and installed it twice. Can anyone help?
Video is too large to post, but once it completes a cycle there is slack. Thank you in advance.
"Solved" - I ended up using channel locks to squeeze the chain guides and this gave another click on the chain tensioner.
Last edited by Honz; 05-10-2021 at 11:01 AM. Reason: Editorial
#4
05-10-2021, 09:43 AM
Did you ever resolve this issue?
Hi Honz-
I’m having the same cold start noise and have read that it’s the timing chain tensioner. What did you do about the slack in the chain?
Note- I have the same car 2013 sport with the CVT & 2.4L
I’m having the same cold start noise and have read that it’s the timing chain tensioner. What did you do about the slack in the chain?
Note- I have the same car 2013 sport with the CVT & 2.4L
#5
05-10-2021, 10:28 AM
CarJones,
My issue was the actual VTC actuator and that solved the cold start rattle. After pulling the tensioner pin, as stated, the chain had too much slack and decided that it was not normal. I used a large channel lock and covered the grooves with tape and squeezed the sides of the chain guides where they meet in the middle. This eventually gave another click and helped a lot with the chain slack. I rotated the crankshaft numerous times and everything was moving freely. I put all the parts back and my car started. Still good after 4k miles of use.
My issue was the actual VTC actuator and that solved the cold start rattle. After pulling the tensioner pin, as stated, the chain had too much slack and decided that it was not normal. I used a large channel lock and covered the grooves with tape and squeezed the sides of the chain guides where they meet in the middle. This eventually gave another click and helped a lot with the chain slack. I rotated the crankshaft numerous times and everything was moving freely. I put all the parts back and my car started. Still good after 4k miles of use.
Last edited by Honz; 05-10-2021 at 01:31 PM.
#6
05-10-2021, 11:34 AM
CarJones,
My issue was the actual VTC actuator and that solved the cold start rattle. After pulling the tensioner pin, as stated, the chain had too much slack and decided that it was not normal. I used a large channel lock and covered the grooves with tap and squeezed the sides of the chain guides where they meet in the middle. This eventually gave another click and helped a lot with the chain slack. I rotated the crankshaft numerous times and everything was moving freely. I put all the part back and my car started. Still good after 4k miles of use.
My issue was the actual VTC actuator and that solved the cold start rattle. After pulling the tensioner pin, as stated, the chain had too much slack and decided that it was not normal. I used a large channel lock and covered the grooves with tap and squeezed the sides of the chain guides where they meet in the middle. This eventually gave another click and helped a lot with the chain slack. I rotated the crankshaft numerous times and everything was moving freely. I put all the part back and my car started. Still good after 4k miles of use.
I was thinking that I would replace the tensioner first to see if that helped with the cold start noise; also, replacing the VTC actuator is far above my skill level. Do you think I would have the slack chain issue if I just replaced the tensioner? Obviously, I won't have access to the chain guides from the small access plate next to the crank pulley. So I won't be able to apply your technique using the channel locks to squeeze the guides for the extra clicks need to engage the tensioner. Thank you for your insight!!
Last edited by carjones; 05-10-2021 at 11:45 AM.
#7
05-10-2021, 12:15 PM
CarJones,
Since you are not removing the chain, VTC actuator or the camshaft, there should be no slack. This would be just a direct replacement of the tensioner. My new chain was 1-2 mm shorter which probably caused the extra slack(was not able to to set the proper tension on the tensioner).
If you do replace the chain tensioner, I would double check that all marks are at TDC first and to take pictures before you start the replacement.
Since you are not removing the chain, VTC actuator or the camshaft, there should be no slack. This would be just a direct replacement of the tensioner. My new chain was 1-2 mm shorter which probably caused the extra slack(was not able to to set the proper tension on the tensioner).
If you do replace the chain tensioner, I would double check that all marks are at TDC first and to take pictures before you start the replacement.
#8
05-10-2021, 12:48 PM
CarJones,
Since you are not removing the chain, VTC actuator or the camshaft, there should be no slack. This would be just a direct replacement of the tensioner. My new chain was 1-2 mm shorter which probably caused the extra slack(was not able to to set the proper tension on the tensioner).
If you do replace the chain tensioner, I would double check that all marks are at TDC first and to take pictures before you start the replacement.
Since you are not removing the chain, VTC actuator or the camshaft, there should be no slack. This would be just a direct replacement of the tensioner. My new chain was 1-2 mm shorter which probably caused the extra slack(was not able to to set the proper tension on the tensioner).
If you do replace the chain tensioner, I would double check that all marks are at TDC first and to take pictures before you start the replacement.
Wish me luck
!