6th Gen - mulitplex interchangability
#1
6th Gen - mulitplex interchangability
Noob here,
Great to see all the helpful posts - hope I haven';t missed this one - so here goes
'00 Accord LX sedan - 92K original miles
recent HARSH winter = 6+ times w/ temps at -10 to -15F
now have a rash of electrical problems: (cold caused or just age?)
Door locks won't work - although I can hear something "trying" to work on the P side of dash (multiplexer). Fuse blows as blades approach contact points on fuse block.
Dash lights/wipers/HVAC fan all "surge" (if lit, they become brighter) (if powered - like blower fan or wipers, they move/run faster. Also - hi beams don't work (though light on dash says that they are on) and now cruise main switch is inoperative.
Recently replaced trans (2.3L/Vtec) and trans selector switch.
Question:
What years are the passenger side multiplex unit interchangeable? - got 1 from a '98 from a sedan that had almost all bells and whistles. Will it work?
I still plan to take DR door apart to search for shorted wires or inop actuator.
I also am going to swap out my old alternator for one from the salvage yard - all at the same time.
Any help/direction to other areas on this or other sites appreciated - flames accepted because I am all thumbs w/ computers, but not wrenches. This - despite the fact that removing the P multiplex unit was a real PITA!
Thanks,
Al
BTW - all electrical problems started 14+ months ago with - Tad-ah!! a self-engaging horn that wouldn't quit starting at 5:30AM in XMAS DAY! Has happened 3x times - I have cut the wires - fuses fine - horn switch/airbag ***'y issue? The more I try to troubleshoot - the more confusing this gets.
Great to see all the helpful posts - hope I haven';t missed this one - so here goes
'00 Accord LX sedan - 92K original miles
recent HARSH winter = 6+ times w/ temps at -10 to -15F
now have a rash of electrical problems: (cold caused or just age?)
Door locks won't work - although I can hear something "trying" to work on the P side of dash (multiplexer). Fuse blows as blades approach contact points on fuse block.
Dash lights/wipers/HVAC fan all "surge" (if lit, they become brighter) (if powered - like blower fan or wipers, they move/run faster. Also - hi beams don't work (though light on dash says that they are on) and now cruise main switch is inoperative.
Recently replaced trans (2.3L/Vtec) and trans selector switch.
Question:
What years are the passenger side multiplex unit interchangeable? - got 1 from a '98 from a sedan that had almost all bells and whistles. Will it work?
I still plan to take DR door apart to search for shorted wires or inop actuator.
I also am going to swap out my old alternator for one from the salvage yard - all at the same time.
Any help/direction to other areas on this or other sites appreciated - flames accepted because I am all thumbs w/ computers, but not wrenches. This - despite the fact that removing the P multiplex unit was a real PITA!
Thanks,
Al
BTW - all electrical problems started 14+ months ago with - Tad-ah!! a self-engaging horn that wouldn't quit starting at 5:30AM in XMAS DAY! Has happened 3x times - I have cut the wires - fuses fine - horn switch/airbag ***'y issue? The more I try to troubleshoot - the more confusing this gets.
#3
Steering wheel/horn/air bag dis- and re- assembly
Noob here,
'00 Accord LX - 92 K original miles
2.3L - Vtec
Recent electrical problems:
No DLocks all around - blows replacement fuse as soon as blades of fuse approach fuse block on P side.
New transmission and selector switch - last 3 months - adjusted for better shifting after installation, but now Cruise Main does not work at all.
"Surging" in dash lights - many warning lights flicker (instrument cluster - all door ajar lamps, break light and red lamp under CEL - they come on/go out in unison) - and sometimes stay on - fan/wipers, if on, work/move faster. Lights on dash and headlamps also glow brighter when instrument lights illuminate.
1st difficulties were the horn going off all by itself - Xmas morning at 5:30 no less. "fixed" by local shop only to happen again next day. Has happened 2x more - I've cut the horn wires - bad safety issue.
Steering wheel question: I am going to try to replace horn switch in wheel hub assembly - is the horn button integral with the airbag assembly? Do I need to get a new assembly (w/ bag) or can I deal with the horn switch alone? It has been suggested that between the moisture content of the East where these problems started cropping up, coupled with a brutally cold winter may cause this problem(s).....it IS a 14 year old car.
Plan:
- replace pass side multiplex computer board/fuse block (have- its off a '98 EX sedan) - can hear it "try" to work when toggling door lock switch to test.
-replace alternator with one from salvage yard (have - from same car as multiplex)
-disassemble S wheel/air bag/horn and try to replace horn switch (do not have yet)
-disassemble DR door panel and search for shorts in wiring bundles.
This will be undertaken all at once so as to hopefully mitigate all problems.
I'm mighty disappointed in this Accord - US made in Marysville, OH - and I've had Honda products all my life. To say nothing of Trans failure at 86K - I do take care of the car.
Just want to get these things fixed - sorry to be extensive, but want to place all "cards" on the table - (all Jokers as far as I can see...)
Thank you!
'00 Accord LX - 92 K original miles
2.3L - Vtec
Recent electrical problems:
No DLocks all around - blows replacement fuse as soon as blades of fuse approach fuse block on P side.
New transmission and selector switch - last 3 months - adjusted for better shifting after installation, but now Cruise Main does not work at all.
"Surging" in dash lights - many warning lights flicker (instrument cluster - all door ajar lamps, break light and red lamp under CEL - they come on/go out in unison) - and sometimes stay on - fan/wipers, if on, work/move faster. Lights on dash and headlamps also glow brighter when instrument lights illuminate.
1st difficulties were the horn going off all by itself - Xmas morning at 5:30 no less. "fixed" by local shop only to happen again next day. Has happened 2x more - I've cut the horn wires - bad safety issue.
Steering wheel question: I am going to try to replace horn switch in wheel hub assembly - is the horn button integral with the airbag assembly? Do I need to get a new assembly (w/ bag) or can I deal with the horn switch alone? It has been suggested that between the moisture content of the East where these problems started cropping up, coupled with a brutally cold winter may cause this problem(s).....it IS a 14 year old car.
Plan:
- replace pass side multiplex computer board/fuse block (have- its off a '98 EX sedan) - can hear it "try" to work when toggling door lock switch to test.
-replace alternator with one from salvage yard (have - from same car as multiplex)
-disassemble S wheel/air bag/horn and try to replace horn switch (do not have yet)
-disassemble DR door panel and search for shorts in wiring bundles.
This will be undertaken all at once so as to hopefully mitigate all problems.
I'm mighty disappointed in this Accord - US made in Marysville, OH - and I've had Honda products all my life. To say nothing of Trans failure at 86K - I do take care of the car.
Just want to get these things fixed - sorry to be extensive, but want to place all "cards" on the table - (all Jokers as far as I can see...)
Thank you!
#4
No current alarm in place - but there was obviously an aftermarket alarm unit in the car at some point.
(blinking type alert light on dash - and old [dead] kill switch under dash - wires cut)
I am assuming that the system was removed (I'm beginning to wonder why)- I received 1 key only on purchase of vehicle and no remote of any kind. I didn't notice it until later....
(blinking type alert light on dash - and old [dead] kill switch under dash - wires cut)
I am assuming that the system was removed (I'm beginning to wonder why)- I received 1 key only on purchase of vehicle and no remote of any kind. I didn't notice it until later....
#5
I wouldn't go for the "horn switch" just yet.
Can I assume the car has a factory alarm system? A few of the 6th gens had an issue with the hood latch switch getting dirty or out of adjustment. Try removing the connector from the latch switch and see if that solves the horn issue.
Exactly which fuse is blowing?
Can I assume the car has a factory alarm system? A few of the 6th gens had an issue with the hood latch switch getting dirty or out of adjustment. Try removing the connector from the latch switch and see if that solves the horn issue.
Exactly which fuse is blowing?
#7
The alarm was an aftermarket item - it was removed before I purchased the car.
As to the fuse that is blown - it is the one for the power door locks (I can't remember the number - but its on the passenger side fuse block.
At this point, what I need to know is what years (1998 - 2002) are the multiplex units (MPI) interchangeable? I have BOTH dr and pass MPIs from a '98 EX sedan - that's where I plan to start - are they interchangeable with my 2000 LX sedan?
Thanks
As to the fuse that is blown - it is the one for the power door locks (I can't remember the number - but its on the passenger side fuse block.
At this point, what I need to know is what years (1998 - 2002) are the multiplex units (MPI) interchangeable? I have BOTH dr and pass MPIs from a '98 EX sedan - that's where I plan to start - are they interchangeable with my 2000 LX sedan?
Thanks
#8
In this thread there is a link to write up on parts compatibility.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...threads-40780/
The OEM part numbers are different, so the has to be some difference between the two parts. Not sure if this would give you problems.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...threads-40780/
The OEM part numbers are different, so the has to be some difference between the two parts. Not sure if this would give you problems.
#9
It also sounds like you have a short to ground with that fuse blowing immediately. That is where you need to start. Tell us the fuse number and description. Then you will have to start eliminating components on that circuit to locate the short.
#10
fuse block on pass side of dash - MPU "piggybacked" to the fuse block
fuse simply is fried as I move the new one into place - literally arcs as the fuse blades approach the seating/mounting position on the fuse block - fuse never even gets anywhere near started, let alone fully seated
PDL is the only thing listed on the access panel sticker listing fuses/position and what component(s) are served.
I hope that pics are of some help/clarity
Thanks....