88 Accord LX Carb Problems
#1
03-20-2010 | 09:56 AM
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88 Accord LX Carb Problems
I have 3 similar problems with my 88 Accord LX 4cyl carb'd manual tranny, which I will describe one by one:
1. Auto Choke
2. Idle
3. Dashpot?
Problem #1
When I first got this car (few months ago) it was very hard to keep running when cold. It would turn over on the first couple cranks then die. Next crank would be a little harder, but would still turnover then die. The only way it wouldn’t die is if i kept on the throttle (most times with my scraper wedged at the pedal) until it warmed up enough to stay running on its own.
When it got a little nicer, I started to diagnose the problem using the FSM:
I found that the choke opener linkage was a little off. Fixing it made it to where the choke fully closed when cold and opened some while cranking. The vacuum activated choke opener worked fine with vacuum applied with a vacuum pump.
The result was that it would start up on the first crank, but would still die right away. The second time it would again start up on the first crank, but then stay running idling up to about 2K then slowly going down to 1500. This way the problem was manageable because I didn’t have to use my scraper anymore.
But lo and behold a new problem was created – if I let it sit for 15 min or so, but it is still warm it will not start unless I floor it and let it crank for 15 seconds . If I start it again in 15 min or less then it will start right up, stay started, but idles way high (2500+) until I tap the throttle to drop it down. If I wait long enough for it to get cold (few hours) with the temp being 55 or so and below it will go back to the cold start – start up then die, but on second crank will stay running.
I diagnosed a couple other items such as the throttle cable adjustment and the fast unloader using the FSM. The fast unloader did not check out saying that it is the fast idle cam. It says to remove the cover, but it is riveted on and is also adjusted to a factory setting. Has anyone done this? What steps should I take to remove? What should I use to replace the rivets?
Once the cover is off the FSM says to check the operation of the fast idle cam, but does not go into detail on its correct operation. Can anyone fill me in here?
Problem #2
Since I have owned the car I have had an idle problem that does not respond to the idle adjust screw. It stays around 1500 unless I put loads on it – ie; AC, rear defrost, headlights, etc. What could be preventing the idle adjust screw from responding?
Problem #3
As the car warms the idle seems to “stick” when changing gears. If I go from any gear and let off the gas and push the clutch the idle goes to about 3K. The only way it doesn't do it is if I let off the gas for a second of two then push on the clutch. If I am sitting idle at a light and have my foot on the clutch or have it in neutral and push the throttle it seems to linger like the throttle is sticking. Is this a dashpot problem since it doesn’t do it at all until warm?
I would appreciate anyone’s input on this because I am stuck. Thanks in advance!
1. Auto Choke
2. Idle
3. Dashpot?
Problem #1
When I first got this car (few months ago) it was very hard to keep running when cold. It would turn over on the first couple cranks then die. Next crank would be a little harder, but would still turnover then die. The only way it wouldn’t die is if i kept on the throttle (most times with my scraper wedged at the pedal) until it warmed up enough to stay running on its own.
When it got a little nicer, I started to diagnose the problem using the FSM:
I found that the choke opener linkage was a little off. Fixing it made it to where the choke fully closed when cold and opened some while cranking. The vacuum activated choke opener worked fine with vacuum applied with a vacuum pump.
The result was that it would start up on the first crank, but would still die right away. The second time it would again start up on the first crank, but then stay running idling up to about 2K then slowly going down to 1500. This way the problem was manageable because I didn’t have to use my scraper anymore.
But lo and behold a new problem was created – if I let it sit for 15 min or so, but it is still warm it will not start unless I floor it and let it crank for 15 seconds . If I start it again in 15 min or less then it will start right up, stay started, but idles way high (2500+) until I tap the throttle to drop it down. If I wait long enough for it to get cold (few hours) with the temp being 55 or so and below it will go back to the cold start – start up then die, but on second crank will stay running.
I diagnosed a couple other items such as the throttle cable adjustment and the fast unloader using the FSM. The fast unloader did not check out saying that it is the fast idle cam. It says to remove the cover, but it is riveted on and is also adjusted to a factory setting. Has anyone done this? What steps should I take to remove? What should I use to replace the rivets?
Once the cover is off the FSM says to check the operation of the fast idle cam, but does not go into detail on its correct operation. Can anyone fill me in here?
Problem #2
Since I have owned the car I have had an idle problem that does not respond to the idle adjust screw. It stays around 1500 unless I put loads on it – ie; AC, rear defrost, headlights, etc. What could be preventing the idle adjust screw from responding?
Problem #3
As the car warms the idle seems to “stick” when changing gears. If I go from any gear and let off the gas and push the clutch the idle goes to about 3K. The only way it doesn't do it is if I let off the gas for a second of two then push on the clutch. If I am sitting idle at a light and have my foot on the clutch or have it in neutral and push the throttle it seems to linger like the throttle is sticking. Is this a dashpot problem since it doesn’t do it at all until warm?
I would appreciate anyone’s input on this because I am stuck. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by ughcord; 03-22-2010 at 08:12 PM. Reason: misspelling
#2
03-21-2010 | 12:25 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,170
From: Fayetteville, AR
On the pasenger side of the carb there is a 'letdown' adjustment screw.
You'll need a long skinny phillips screwdriver to get to it. Back the screw out all the way off the lever then test drive to see if there is any change.
On a Carb that old it is also possible that the throttle plate could be worn and hanging open a little bit
You'll need a long skinny phillips screwdriver to get to it. Back the screw out all the way off the lever then test drive to see if there is any change.
On a Carb that old it is also possible that the throttle plate could be worn and hanging open a little bit
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