I have an 88 Honda Accord that is not reliably starting. I have been able to get it to start but not reliably. Once I get it started, it runs fine no issues and will even start back up once turned off. most of the time the distributor is new. The starter is new. The spark plugs are sparking as far as I can tell and there’s fuel getting to the rail. I have spent two hours today and it won’t start the other day. I only took me 20 minutes to get it to start today I use starter fluid in the throttle body and it wouldn’t start. I am out of ideas and need some suggestions on what to try next.

 

Is your 88 accord the fuel injected version or the carb version?

 

Fuel injected. We got it to start at 6pm last night after trying all day. It started 6 or so times before we went in for the night. This morning back to just turning over. But no start.

 

Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to crank the engine. Do you hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds? It is a buzzing/whirling sound from the back seat about the same time the check engine light does the bulb check?

Did you check for codes? On the 88, the ECU was under the driver's or passenger's seat. I think you just turn the key to the II position and the ECU should have a window where you will count the number of flashes from a led to get the codes.

Also, what have you tried so far for repairs on your car?

 

I will check for that sound. I put new plugs in it yesterday. The wires are new. The distributor is new. The starter I believe is newish. I have checked that there is fuel flow at the rail and the plugs are sparking. We tried starter fluid yesterday with no change that was hours before it started so I don’t believe that did anything. And the fuel filter is three months old.

 

Yes the fuel pump can be heard.

 

I missed you already trying starting fluid when I first read your initial post.

Since the car can start and run normally, the compression, timing, spark plug wires are likely good. I"m assuming you can see a spark jump the spark plug gap consistently with the spark plug out of the engine and grounded, so the ignition system is sending a signal for the coil to spark. Starting fluid doesn't cause the engine to temporarlily fire up meaning you don't have enough spark to temporarily start the car.

I'd be leaning towards a weak coil. If you want to test before replacing, there are spark testers where you can increase the gap and there will be a scale on the tester. If the spark can only jump a small gap, then you have a weak coil even if you can see the spark jumping across a plug. Another way is to try an inductive timing light to see if enough current is running through the spark plug wire to trigger a flashing timing light. Lightly misting water on/around could cause the spark to find ground that you could see in low light just to verify.

There are some other tests you can try for the input of the coil that we could suggest to ensure you have a good signal to coil, but the coil seems suspect based on your description.

 

Ok, I have put in a new coil and nothing has changed. turns over like a champ, but never starts. I again took one of the plugs out left the wire on held it on a manifold bolt to see if I could see the spark. I don’t really have a frame of reference. It doesn’t seem to have like a bright spark.

 

I recommend not changing any more parts unless you verify they are bad. I've seen too many posts where new parts fail and complicate the diagnosis.

Look for the ECU to see if it is flahing any codes.

When you replaced the distributor, did it come with a new distributor cap and rotor? Did you keep the old distributor?

Another simple test is to use a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the engine block. Any large bolt connected to the engine will work to connect to the block. This will ensure your engine block has a solid electcrical ground and is not electrically isolated. Try to start the car to see if fires right up.

 

good point. I am trying to find the ECU right now. This one has new carpet so I’m gonna have to find a way into it. When I say the distributor is new, at least the cap is new and the little vacuum thing that goes on it I did not replace those though they were replaced before the car was in our possession, but the cap looks extremely clean and is really clean on the inside, I will let you know what I find from the ECU.