So I bought my 88 accord automatic trans because of it's mint condition. When I bought it summer 2011 the carb had issues. It was reving up and down when it was first started then when it heated up it would fluctuate from about 500 rpm to 2000 while Idel then it would just cut out. Lol I actually had to ride the gas when I brought it home. We figured out the big problem was the intake gasket. So after that was fixed it smelled awful like worse then a lawn mower.

So when I start it in the morning it struggles to stay awake. If I don't touch the gas with in a minute it will stall. If I hold the gas for 30 seconds it will Idel between 800 and 1100 rpm but extreamly rough. If I leave it it will not rev up like how it's supposed to during the warm up process. Even if I touch the gas. So then I leave for work. I drive about a Mile or 2 km and the first light I stop at the car wants to take off. I have to push down the break as hard as I can. If I put it in park or N it will spike to 3 k and it will not come down till the engine is hot. It also won't go down on its own I have to tap the gas. If I stop for 5 minutes it spikes again. Usually it takes 2 or 3 really good rpm spikes to bring it back down.

I don't like to mess with things if they are working. My common sence suspects that the choke adjustment was messed with and maybe the fuel to keep the engine running because of the huge vacuum leak because of the intake gasket. so I adjusted the choke screw a tiney bit last night and it made it a little better. But the cars exhaust still reaks. It started the same way and did all the same things. The only difference is when it spikes it's at max 2 k rather then closer to 3. So I am starting to wonder was it messed with so much to keep it running or is it something mechanical that needs replacing. Should I try to lower the gas intake which might fix the smell and the idle. The last thing is it putters it's not quite a back fire. But even when everything is hot and it's parked it still bounces about 200 to 400 rpm. I know it's a lot but this is my last resort before I spend money I don't have to buy a rebuilt. Thank you so much for your help. I hope I was descriptive enough. And please ask other questions if you need.
Take care
Matt

 

In the "Common DIY Threads" sticky at the top of this section there is a link to a manual you can download.

For the high idle/hanging idle when cold, I'd suggest you start with the fast idle unloader tests. I've seen a few of these where the orfice gets clogged, the where and what is covered in the manual.

For the idle once warm....are the normal tune up items up to date?

Now I saw a REAL expert on these, IMO, online a little earlier (Hondadude). He might chime in with more info as well.

 

Is there a video I can watch as an example. The car was funded up before I got it but I will be installing my plasma ignition once I figure out where to buy resistorless spark plugs. Lol you think MSD ignitions have a big spark look at my YouTube video to see how big it is. This I am hoping will clean up some of the emissions due to a cleaner mure full burn. But I want to get the carb working perfect before I install it just so I can see the gas mileage increase.
I am new to this forum format so I am not sure how it works so I will make sure it's posted in both sections. Water spark plug. 5 hp briggs and stratton engine, and convert it to run on water Series 3 Part 1 - YouTube when you put his name in brackets will that notify him. The spark plugs that are already on it look good and the few mechanics that have seen this old girl say it's fine the way it is. Thanks for helping looking forward to the next reply.
Matt.

 

Sorry, don't know of a video on cleaning/checking this.....I'm guessing in the early 90's it wasn't a big deal to make videos of things like this. A little reading with some pretty good drawings is about all I have - in the same manual you can download.