89 Accord SE-i dying randomly HELP PLEASE
#11
Can you post the brand and model number of the meter? I might be able to find an online manual to help with how to set it for testing voltage.
At first when you are learning, a good test is the battery....once on the correct setting you touch the leads to the battery (assuming it is good) and you should read ~12.4v.
For giggles, have you looked for codes? I know you stated no CEL but it takes all of 30 seconds to check on these.
At first when you are learning, a good test is the battery....once on the correct setting you touch the leads to the battery (assuming it is good) and you should read ~12.4v.
For giggles, have you looked for codes? I know you stated no CEL but it takes all of 30 seconds to check on these.
#13
yeah i did that today actually haha, no lights flashing. The brand for the voltmeter is "IDEAL" they've always had great products for the electrical field. Model number i believe is 61-312. I drove it today and learned that i dont have to throw it in neutral, just a very quick off and on with the key brings it right back to normal. Oh how i wish i had a CEL though
#15
Yeah I'm gonna dig around a few pull a parts before I go buy a brand new one. I tried to track the hose back near the firewall but it looks like ill have to go under it. What connection is it under there? I know it's what looks like 2 10mm bolts to the pump but I couldn't see the other end
#16
The PS hose makes a big U around the engine. The end on the pump is easy, the other end is under the car on the drivers side going to the rack & pinion. There is a cover over the connections, a few small bolts and the cover comes right off. Once that cover is off you will see where that connection (and a few others) is.
That is a high level description....there are planty of little details from there. When you get into it and need more info just let us know.
Here is a link to the manual for the meter. Bottom right of page one has the settings for checking voltage......try it right on the car battery and you should get a reading in the ~12.5v range:
http://www.idealindustries.com/media...structions.pdf
That is a high level description....there are planty of little details from there. When you get into it and need more info just let us know.
Here is a link to the manual for the meter. Bottom right of page one has the settings for checking voltage......try it right on the car battery and you should get a reading in the ~12.5v range:
http://www.idealindustries.com/media...structions.pdf
#17
Okay, what am I doing once i have the pump's connection in my hand? (what pin to what probe on the meter, what position is the key in on each test, etc?) I went ahead and pulled the pump completely out to check and see if the sock may have fallen or anything looked out of the ordinary. I noticed some dirtiness so I will be pulling the tank and cleaning it with acid. I also double checked my fuel filter, making sure i have pressure and its not leaking, I pulled the fuel rail and cleaned my injectors. Also went ahead and ordered an ignition switch, if the problem isn't that then ill just return the part. I hope pulling the tank wont be too hard:/ Thanks again for the help!
#18
Yellow wire to the pump is 12v, the black is ground. When the car is running you should have voltage on the yellow wire......again you are going to have to measure this as you drive and watch it when the "issue" happens.
Personally, I would not remove the tank....yes there is "gunk in there" but that is why there is the sock and then the fuel filter.
Did you replace the cap and rotor, I can't remember.
Personally, I would not remove the tank....yes there is "gunk in there" but that is why there is the sock and then the fuel filter.
Did you replace the cap and rotor, I can't remember.
#19
Okay, I haven't replaced cap and rotor either. I just didn't like what I saw in the tank and from what I've read and heard it isn't all that bad to pull the tank. Im actually almost on empty so its now or never. Im just waiting on the switch and jackstands to come in the mail, until then everything is on hold. Hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday they should be in. Im going to put the pump back in tomorrow and run the car with someone and check for continuity in the pump though. I'll post the results as soon as I get them
#20
There is a drain bolt on the gas tank.......depending on the history of the car - where it has been in its life - the staps holding it could be real fun to remove.
Again just me but based upon your description of the issue.....I'd leave the tank alone and worry with the main relay giving out....no power to fuel pump....ign switch getting hot....no or less power to many things....tune up items out of date.
Have you filled the tank since the car has been back on the road?
Also, the codes are read on these from behind and under the drivers seat?
Again just me but based upon your description of the issue.....I'd leave the tank alone and worry with the main relay giving out....no power to fuel pump....ign switch getting hot....no or less power to many things....tune up items out of date.
Have you filled the tank since the car has been back on the road?
Also, the codes are read on these from behind and under the drivers seat?