Yeah, i decided to not tackle the tank just yet. I replaced the ignition switch and surprisingly the car drove fine. 30 solid minutes of driving and it didn't have an issue. So I started feeling brave and when i put the pedal to the floor, the problem occurs. Only in WOT now, so its like i can make the problem happen when i want. So technically, if i drive without being 100 percent in the throttle, it will drive fine. Only when I stab off on it is when it dies, me having to switch the key off and on seems to be what sets it back to normal. I filled it up and ran seafoam through it the day i got it. It was an hour drive and a friend suggested i run seafoam to clean the system. He told me it was going to smoke like a freight train but it actually didnt smoke at all. Idk if thats a good or bad thing. I only figured it was clean already I was searching more threads and found where you helped a guy get codes from his ecu and thats why i knew it was under the driver seat and had a little cover to expose the light that flashes if it had a CEL. But no light for me. So right now where im at is to my knowledge the car drives fine no problems if im just around the neighborhood up and down the street etc etc. If i go into WOT, 100% it will die out once it's ready to switch to the next gear. I can also record a video of the speedo, upload it on my youtube and link it here if that would help? I also haven't had a buddy been able to be in the back seat to check voltage while i drive yet. Hopefully this weekend it can be done though

 

Seafoam will make a ton of smoke when put directly into the engine thru a vac hose to the tb. Just in the gas and you won't see anything.

I see you've played with the "search"...nice

If the cap and rotor are due or of unknown age....I'd replace them just to be sure. Also not sure of the wires, I bet the OE ones are long gone (the OE wires seem to last forever). So you might look into replacing those.

No code drive issues are not that fun.

 

I'm seeing 5 bucks and 14 bucks for cap and rotor so I will do that. I wouldn't doubt these are oe wires, not sure of how to check that though. Also, what are your views on the MAP sensor? I read a few threads where they had similar problems and it turned out to be that. I would imagine the ecu would throw that code though. Another idea is what if the cat or something in the exhaust is stopped up so when i push it to higher than normal, it just bogs out because the flow is not enough? im so lost right now, i was hoping the ignition switch would be a sure fire win.

 

Yeah, im a computer engineer major so I work the internet to the max. Its disappointing to see someone start a thread for something that can be easily found on google or just 2 minutes of searching. smh. I want to say this is my first thread starter ever. Normally I am pretty good at diagnosing and fixing hondas. This will be my 8th or 9th one? But theres always a first for everything and this one has me stumped.

 

Just me but I'm not one to replace something that can be tested, I'm not going with the map just yet.

If the covers on the wires "look" good, check the resistance of them.....don't forget the coil wire.

Usually the cat will clog when warm and stay that way.....stopping the big air pump (engine) from being able to get the air out....meaning it will dye out way earlier than what you are describing.....you could always unbolt the pipe from the manifold and give it a run, hope your neighbors are nice

If in park and you "rev" the engine...does the same thing happen?

 

I can tach it out when its in park and not get the problem I have when its in drive. Im just at the end of my road here, I dont have a possible explanation as to why its doing this:/ dont know of any options to even troubleshoot anymore. I pulled each plug and touched it to metal and go spark of thats what you mean

 

There's 2 different ways for sparkplug wires to fail.

- Incorrect resistance. Measure with ohm-meter & maybe Poorman knows what the resistance is supposed to be.

- Breakdown of insulation. Cold engine & complete darkness (3am?). Open the hood, turn off the lights, start the engine. Look for arcing or corona discharge (blue glow).

 

Yeah, I have the arc on each one.. thats what ive always known to check each plug. Like i said, so far so good its driving fine with the new ignition switch. Im just not gonna flat out stab on the gas and hopefully we will see how long this lasts. Thanks for the help everyone