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'90 Accord DX, falling apart

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  #1  
Old 06-28-2011 | 01:34 PM
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Default '90 Accord DX, falling apart

hey, here's the cliche first forum post complaining about car troubles...

im new to the honda world as i just bought a 1990 accord dx with 218k, to daily drive while i complete my subaru project

problems:
  • very rough idle
  • transmission (AT) wont shift under constant acceleration (kick down?)
  • acceleration is horrible, takes maybe a minute or longer to reach freeway speeds..
  • it doesnt do hills. at all.
  • wont go over 60mph
  • blinking CEL, i cannot find the '2 pin connector' used to read codes anywhere (pass side under the dash, didnt see it)
  • got some overheating and light smoking after about a 40 mile mostly freeway drive
  • and the fan stays on for a bit after i shut the car off and remove the key

but.. the body and interior is pretty good for a car as old as i am

anyways.. hit me with the onslaught of tech advice
 
  #2  
Old 06-28-2011 | 01:47 PM
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okay, so i found the diagnostic plug, with a switch on it instead.. so thats confusing the **** out of me



it looks like it was in the position of shorting the two wires to begin with, because when i switch it off, the cel turns on with the other lights, then turns off as if theres no code, when the wires are touching, the cel blinks slowly..

so..?
 
  #3  
Old 06-28-2011 | 02:14 PM
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Count the flashes to get the codes. See the links in the common diy index at the top of gen tech help forum.
 
  #4  
Old 06-28-2011 | 02:27 PM
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its just constantly flashing at the same rate
 
  #5  
Old 06-28-2011 | 02:42 PM
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I would pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. Plug fuse back in.

Don't try to start the car, but re-check for codes. The check engine light should light up and not flash any codes.

Did the D4 light or the S light flash any codes?
 
  #6  
Old 06-28-2011 | 06:18 PM
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i pulled the fuse and replaced it..

with the diagnostic wires connected, the CEL did exactly what you said, it lit up and did not shut off, with the diagnostic wires not connected, it lit up for a few seconds and shut off,

neither the d4 or S lights were flashing
 
  #7  
Old 06-28-2011 | 07:05 PM
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the CEL hasnt come back on after driving around the block but its still obvious something is wrong,

in P, the idle will jump from 1k to 1.5k rpm over and over, but in D4 as im stopped will idle fine.

there is no WOT the car just revs up and maybe even slows a bit
 
  #8  
Old 06-28-2011 | 07:37 PM
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I would start with some basic maintenance and a tuneup.

I would replace the spark plugs. Get only the NGK ZFR5F-11 that you can pick up at any parts store for around $6. I would get with a Honda distributor cap, and distributor rotor from the dealership (or order online from sites like Ebay). You may pay ~$10 more for them at the dealership, but Honda makes better ignition parts IMO.

When the engine is cold, take off the radiator cap and make sure the coolant is filled to the top of the radiator. If it looks nasty, I would consider flushing, then replace with new coolant.

At night, start the engine and look at the spark plug wires. Look for any arching on the wires or a blue glow. If you spray a fine mist of water, that may help you see the arching. If you see arching, I would replace the spark plug wires. NGK, Denso, or Honda make very good wires.

Get some throttle body cleaner and clean the bore of the throttle plate. Also clean both sides of the throttle plate. Use an old toothbrush and a rag to clean any build up.

Check the oil level. I would probably change the oil and filter too. Use 5W-30 oil.
 
  #9  
Old 06-28-2011 | 10:41 PM
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From: Dallas, TX
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if that two ppin connector was jumped it would leave the car in limp mode, that would be why you couldnt go over 60mph or a certain rpm
 
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