well ill need some help then... cant reach key from backseat... and I dont think I hear anything coming from the backseat when Im sitting in the driver seat... its cranking, and starting and running fine, and I hear nothing from rear... and when it gets to the point where it shuts off... even after the cel stays on.. i cant hear anything from the back... I have huge subs in my jimmy... maybe I need a better ear...

 

You don't need to be in the back seat. Turn off all the stuff in the car, radio, blower, etc.

Turn the key to the II position and do not try to start the car. Just listen for the buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat area while the check engine light is on.

If your car started before, the fuel pump is priming. What we are trying to do is to prepare you for a test when the car is not starting.

 

You hear the bump (relay under dash?), but do you hear the fuel pump run for 3 secs and cut off? If you don't hear the fuel pump when no-start is presented, the fuel supply is the problem. If you definitely hear the fuel pump, then ignition is likely the problem.

good luck

 

kk... i just leaned the seat back... and got a listen for what it sounds like before the cel comes on.... i did hear a little whirl, then a gunk... soft.. but I hear it.... Then the car stalled out... cel comes on... and I rotated the key a couple more times, and heard the same sound I did before.... sounds the same good and working, and after cel comes on...

 

Suggest checking that 12V is present on blk/yel wire at the distributor when engine stoppage/no-start occurs. If no voltage, then ignition switch problem seems likely.

good luck

 

i think ill need a voltmeter to check that? Or can I use a test light??

 

this is just a hunch...but pop the fuel line off your fuel rail and see if gas comes out of it. If not then it's your fuel filter. It's something free that you can try. Maybe you having a lack of fuel??

 

will do... i had a friend tell me to just go buy a new fuel filter anyway... think Ill be doing that tomorrow for ****s and gigs

 

I think that you need to take a step back, because something has been overlooked. I am just reading your posts and asking questions.

On your first post you already narrowed down the problem to the ECU. Was there any work done previously on the car before the problem started? What is missing is what you tested and how you did it.

Moving the key will only verify a bad ignition switch if the car stalls out. Is the key shiny or the mechanical side ignition switch? Does you key open all of the doors and start the car? When did you get this car?

You said that you rebuilt half of the distributor. What did you do? Inspect the wiring, because the wires and/or pins could be damaged. There is a ground on the thermostat housing that you should loosen, clean the bolt/connector with a wire brush, then tighten. Actually do this for all ends of both battery cables.

Did you always have the CEL problem staying on all of the time before you could start the car. Or did this happen after you worked on the distributor?

What is the part number on the ECU that you replaced? For example, 37820-PT3-A52.

 

Original problem was stalling... I replaced the icm, cap, rotor.

I narrowed down to ECU, because I read that when the del just stays on when you short the service wires than that meant ECU was shot.

The keys look new... couple months old. One key works doors, and the other works the ignition. Keys and ignition are both shiny. They are not Honda keys.. but copies. The car was a mechanical lean.. guy didn't want to pay for his transmission and timing belt repairs... I got the car 2 weeks ago for what was owed..750.

I was getting a code 15. Was told it was igniter. So I replaced it, and the cap, rotor. I inspected wires, was told the yellow black wire has issues. They all looked great. Inside that distributor was Clean! Put all back together and thought all was well. Now the cel stays on when wires are bridged.

I will check those grounds and clean and inspect battery wires tonight.

On for replaced ecu is 37820-pt3-a51