Alright let me start from the beginning I picked up a 1990 Accord about 6 months ago with 91k miles original engine, drove very strong, drove for about 2 months 7k miles, and then I went out one morning before work to start her up and she idled good and I usually will press on gas to warm the engine faster around 2k rpms and when I went to do that it started to bog and sputter and I was already late so I put in drive and when to go and it was running very rough could barely get to 30mph. Turned around after couple mins and it stalled when I turned into my neighborhood and wouldn't start. So I got straight into it I pulled the code it had and was code 14 IAC valve which would make sense how it was running and had similar issues on another car. Swapped it out with no luck so I got into diag. I just went ahead and changed spark plugs out and tested my coil packs and they were, cleaned my throttle body and went to check fuel and wasn't getting fuel out the line when I pulled the line off and didn't hear fuel pump. So I got a new pump and installed it, since the pump is in the tank and had no access port I cut a hole which I saw on YouTube. And went to put the key in 2nd position and couldn't hear it. I tested the connection and wasn't getting power so I went ahead and ordered master fuel relay still nothing. I payed for a month on JustAnswer and ran a continuity test from ECU to master relay and it had continuity so he told me that my ECU was bad. I did some research and came to the conclusion of just hard wiring my fuel pump to a kill switch, boom I have fuel, still no start. My friend who works at the Honda dealer told me it was timing and did a little research and pulled the cover and it was rotten. So I did timing which took me over 2 months 2 complete because the auto tensioner bolt got rounded and I ended up taking off with a hammer drill. But I got the belt off did tons of research made sure I was doing it right lined all my marks up dead on and quadruple checked, also did the Honda procedure where you turn it 3 teeth after backing off that tension bolt 1 turn. Put everything together and tried it and it started but was barely running at around 300 rpms jumping up and down and tried to give it gas and it would bog. tried again and my battery was dying until it fully died and I went to have it tested and it was a bad battery. 2 days later I got a new battery put it in there tried it and she started right up but idled high at 1500 rpms. I let it get to operating temperature and went to give it gas and it completely bogged out and stalled. It hasn't started since but got a code for bad injector so I tested them and one was faulty I didn't mention this but also had put in new injectors. Put another one in and they all work and still no start. I tested my spark again still strong spark... I'm at a loss and really need help any suggestions and advice are appreciated.

 

You mentioned coil packs earlier. The 1990 accord doesn't have coil packs for the original setup. The original setup has a distributor. Will you verify the year of the car?

Do you hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car?

How are you testing for spark?

 

Yes I meant spark plug wires it has a distributor. The fuel pump stays on its hard wired to the battery on a kill switch and I hear it on and also at the injectors. I'm testing spark with a harbor freight spark plug tester.

 

You have quite a few items that were changed after your initial no power to the fuel pump and the car still won't run after all of the work.

Was any work done to the car not long before you had the original no-start?
Was the old timing belt still timed properly when you removed it?

You don't know if your problem is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel. If you have an assistant, remove the snorkel to the throttle body. Spray starting fluid into the throttle body while your assistant tries to start the car. If the engine runs (even poorly), then you'll know that you have a fuel problem to the car.

Lets start with some simiple checks since you had the engine apart for the timing belt job that I can think of.

Check that you got the spark plugs in the right order. Look at the distributor from the passenger side of the car. Find the spark plug wire to #1, then clockwise on the cap the next wire should go to #3, next #4, then #2. If you can get the engine to top dead center on #1, pull off the distributor cap and make sure the contact on the rotor is pointing towards the #1 wire. It is possble to install the distributor 180 degrees off (guess how I know!).

On the 94-97 accords, the MAP and TPS sensors were very close to each other and had identical connectors. The connectors were easy to accidentally switch. Not sure if this is possible on the 90 accord. The map sensor wire colors should be wht/blu, blu/wht, and red/wht. The throttle position sensor should be yel/wht, red/blk, and grn/wht.

Identical connectors for the fuel injector resistor box and some other connector next to it. Look at the injector box and make sure the connector from the harness has 4 red wires and one red/blk. The other connector on the 94-97 had a bunch of different wire colors.

Make sure you connected the fuel line properly to the fuel rail. I remember reading that someone switched the return an the feed lines to the rail and pressure regulator.

 

Hey man i dont wanna be a jerk but its almost like you didnt read my post. My car has started twice once after timing belt and it ran poorly around 300 rpms tried to give it gas and it bogged and stalled. I switched out my battery because it completely died and it started right up and idled at 1500 rpms. I let it get to operating temperature and tried to give it gas and it bogged down again and only cranks now and will make a back fire noise almost like it will start. I had my friend crank the engine while i sprayed starter fluid and that did nothing. I know i have fuel.

Now when you talk about the distributor I never pulled that off do you mean to check it and test it?

I never messed with the tps sensor and map sensor, they aren't switched.

I will double check my fuel lines.

Not trying to come across as rude at all, I feel like I'm missing something so simple

 

Hope you don't mind that I edited your post to remove the swear word to keep the thread more PG.

I did read your post, and you have a lot going on. Usually one item causes a car to not start or run poorly. The odds two items fail at the exact same time are very low. You found no power to the pump and eventually bypassed the main fuel relay to get power to the pump after changing the fuel pump and the main relay. You still had a no start. Then you moved on to the IACV, timing belt, etc. Then it started one time, then a dead battery, fuel injector. The inconsistent starting and poor running when you randomly get the engine running doesn't help as you haven't had a normal running engine from the beginning.

The original root cause of no power to the fuel pump was not resolved. Any repair after could create a new problem due to a bad new part or a minor mistake. Hopefully you kept the original parts like IAC.

I think the best path forward is to check some basics on the later repairs, then work backwards.

So I have two questions on the timing belt job.

1. You said the original timing belt was rotted. Did the original timing belt jump time, or were you able to set the engine to TDC with the old belt?

2. The distributor wasn't removed, but are the spark plug wires in the correct order (1,3,4,2) on the distributor cap?

 

It ran good for 7k miles. The fuel pump I feel is ok hard wired, people do it to bypass the ECU there's a kit for it on amazon.
I didn't keep the old IAC it was old and super dirty I tried cleaning but it's 34 years old so. I had engine at TDC and it looked on time but it was all cracked and its the original from 34 years ago it was time for a swap. The spark plug wires are in the correct order, I also have a 96 Accord they have the same engine. I feel like I'm not getting any air for some reason... I don't know

 

There is a youtube channel called schrodinger's box that uses the FASTTEC acroynm for diagnosing a no-start. Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing (ECU), Timing (timing belt), Exhaust, and Compression. A problem with any one of these can cause a crank/no-start.

Air is pretty simple on these cars as you only have a MAP sensor measuring engine vacuum and not a MAF sensor. The compression of the engine will pull in air as long as the valves are in time.

Hard wiring the fuel pump will allow the pump to run, but that main fuel relay also powers the fuel injectors and sends a signal to the ECU. The MFR is not a simple relay to power the fuel pump. The starting fluid test doesn't 100% rule out a fuel delivery issue, but fuel would move down the list. You might have to do some voltage tests at the MFR to determine the original problem.

A spark tester is also not 100% definitive either. A weak spark will jump the air gap at atmospheric pressure, but not under the pressure in the cylinder. I think it is worthwhile to pull the distriubtor cap and look at the rotor and the contacts inside the cap for extreme wear or corrosion.

A bad ground can also cause some strange problems. G101 is the ECU ground in the engine bay. See Poorman's post on the location of G101 in this thread. I'd disconnect and clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper to ensure you have a good ground.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...o-spark-48289/

Another item that could cause the car to not start is a stuck open EGR valve. I'd unplug the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and plug the vacuum hose with an old spark plug or bolt. If the vacuum controls are pulling constant vacuum on the EGR valve, you'd have exhaust gas entering the intake and would stall out the engine at idle.

I'm trying to give you some items to check and possibly eliminate as the issue with your car is not obvious.