Ok thanks I checked for voltage there key on 0 volts when cranking 12v then went to y/ b wire at relay removed harness from relay relay clicks when ig turned on and have 12v to y/b key on

Ps I am confused could the tcm cause this it is the only thing in that circuit I haven't replaced....

 

When you turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car, the check engine light turns on for about two seconds. The fuel pump only gets 12V for those two seconds as well. Make sure you are not missing this when you are testing.

This is just to build up some fuel pressure, so your car will start.

 

Check engine comes on two seconds relay clicks on two seconds 0 voltage during those two seconds I have checked several times voltage only makes it when cranking

Edit: none during key on for the two seconds also tested resistance in yellow wire even though I am confident it is ok because there are 12v when cranking and it is. 4 ohms as it should be thanks for your help Pahonda

 

I even substituted another known good relay still no dice during the time it should be priming why do I always get the one in a trillion issues??

 

This is strange.

I don't like suggesting throwing parts at the car, because I feel bad when someone wastes money going that route. Here are some more questions.

Did you test for spark using the timing light?

Have you checked the fuses for the ECU? There are two. One is labeled ECU and the other is the backup/radio fuse. They are both in the engine bay fuse box.

Have you tried starting the car by spraying starting fluid into the throttle body? You would need an assistant to do this.

The way power is sent to the battery is from the ignition switch, to the main relay, to the fuel pump. The ECU controls the main relay.

Some of your descriptions sound like it is a problem with the electrical portion of your ignition switch. Almost like you have poor contact.

Some of your other descriptions sound like the ECU is not doing its job. You already replaced the ECU.

I would check the electrical connector for the ECU to see if any pins are corroded, since it was in water. Check the TCU electrical connectors too.

You said in your first post that the S light will turn on, but there are no codes. I think that replacing the TCU would be my next guess. The electrical portion of the ignition switch would be my 2nd guess.

Are you sure the ECU you installed was working?

 

Ok as far as the ecm goes I am pretty darn sure its good.....no there were no ecm codes however I do have code 7 and 8 from the tcm both are a shift solenoid open or ground code.....7 is a and 8 is b....I have spark and fuel to the rail when cranking however I do not get it to fire with ether.....I am losing it here I checked the ignition switch the only way I know how by testing for cont by beeps when in the right positions and at the fuse box for voltage I also obviously tested for voltage at the relay harness with the relay d/c and got my 12v there......in fact when you actually crank it is very much as if it wants to run...I would assume if there was a bad map sensor tps or such i would get a cell code strange though that it isn't priming but goes when cranking turned the crank by hand removed valve cover to verify all marks and dist are on....

 

Also I might add all contacts on the ecm and tcm connectors looked good however I sprayed some dielectric cleaner on them to be sure

 

I don't have a good shop manual for the 91 accord.

I am more familiar with the 94-97, since I owned one.

This information is for the 94-97 accord, but it should still apply for your accord.

Check the electrical connectors for the map and the tps sensor. They have identical electrical connectors, and can be accidentally switched. You will have to verify these by the wire color.

It looks like the map sensor will have a red/wht, wht/blu, and a blu/wht wires going to it. The TPS will have yel/wht, grn/wht, and red/blk.

Also check the fuel injector resistor box. It should have four wires in its electrical connector that have the same color (the color that is on all four injectors).

I know this is frustrating, but you do have it narrowed down a bit.

After trying to start the car, remove a spark plug and see if the spark plug is wet with gasoline.

Check the order of the spark plug wires. It should be 1, 3, 4, 2 (that would be clockwise by looking at the distributor from the passenger's side of the car). You said you checked the timing. When you are at TDC, does the tip of the distributor rotor point towards the #1 spark plug wire on the cap?

I just want to make sure that something simple was not overlooked.

 

Ok pahonda I think I found an issue my starter signal wire the blue red going to relay has 10.5 vdc can this cause an issue I was pretty sure I should have a full 12vdc there

 

Not if it has intentional resistance on it. If some other sort of load is on it before that relay then its just a voltage drop which is normal. Clean grounds and connections before and after that relay?