The same principal still applies. The only way I know how to test is by using a VOM and measuring for continuity between 2 of the terminals. I have been told that method of testing is rather crude and often inaccurate. I was going to try it on my V6, but I couldn't get the probes in there with it still on the vehicle. i was confident I needed a new coil, so I just replaced the old one. However you should have it tested first. I guess you could try the primitive test and if it showed the coil was bad, that would probably mean you need a new coil. I was told it may give a faulty "good" reading. which made me assume that if it gave a "bad" reading the coil probably really does need replacement. I'll check it out and see if I can explain the procedure to you as I am not positibe which terminals to probe.

 

I'd have to assume that you already searched and found these????

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_52217/tm.htm
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_63116/tm.htm
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_46171/tm.htm

....... because if you haven't, some people would consider that rude.

 

Calm down...sometimes it's easy to miss things

 

Ohm testing is no longer the standard but it is still a usable test, as mentioned, it it is out of spec, change it, if it is within spec, it could be a false positive.

You need an adjustable spark tester now. An old dwell meter comes in handy too, I think the dwell on the negative coil post has to be more than 4, anything less will not give the coil enough time to charge, bad ignitor.

 

zzzZZZZZZ ..... better?

 

Well that promble sounds like a CAT, if you can be cruising around 2k rpm then you go full throttle and it falls flat on its face and it hardley goes anywhere and whiles its doing this you ease off the throttle and its fine it is like 99% of the time the CAT. I would check and see if the check engine light is on if so, get the code check and see what it says, like using a scan tool (which you probly dont have access to) or you can go to a local parts store and they can do the test, but they are usally wrong 75% of the time..But for my educated guess it would be the CAT

 

Sorry for the delayed response. falkore24, I did check the articles you referenced; replaced the coil, wires, dist. cap and rotor, they all looked spent. It fired right up and runs like a bandit!

Thanks to all who responded - your information was invaluable!

jerico