As I mentioned it is common that A CV boot gets torn and allows the CV joint to get damaged by exposure to water and dirt and runs out of grease then someone replaces the boot and not the joint leaving you with a new boot over a bad CV joint. You have grease on the rack boot that came off of something that failed other than the rack. A torn CV boot will spray grease from turning. I would inspect the tie rod ends to see if they have wear and reinstall the tube and if the rack it isn’t leaking PS fluid I would not replace it. You seem hard set on changing the rack. If you take off a rack boot you will see why the grease is not from the rack.

 

If the rack boots WERE open for awhile that could have let dirt into the rack, but like Desert says, don't take that for granted. Remove the boots & have a look.

The inboard tie-rod balljoints must not be loose & rattling. (outboard ones too)

 

Well I believe the vacuum line being disconnected on the drivers side boot has to do with it and allows water/dirt up in there is a possibility.

Good news is I have some new parts laying around from my 90 honda accord (sold it) and found brand new inner and out tie rods for both sides.

So is there any specific way of going about replacing these that I need to know? Im pretty handy with the wrench as I've pull my wrx engine and replaced the clutch/flywheel not too long ago.

But, Im going to put these on and replace the old ones and if I am still getting the "click click" sound then its the axles and they will be replaced if need be.

 

I would replace the rack boots and you will need to keep the tie rod assembly overall length the same or you will need a wheel alignment. You should be able to look at the parts to understand the order of replacement. As you are going with new tie rod ends you can use a pickle fork to get the outers out of the steering knuckle.

 

**UPDATE

Well, I ended up replacing the lower ball joint cause it was ripped and then I replaced the tie rod both on the driver side.

I did count the order of turns on the tie rod but the alignment is still off.

HOWEVER, I am still getting this weird click sound when taking a left. And when I do a full circle in the parking lot I dont really hear it, so its not the axle, the axle actually looks fine so I am assuming its the wheel bearing.

The reason why I say wheel bearing is cause its possible for it to click when taking a medium left and I do also hear a subtle grinding underneath when Im driving. Hey I could be wrong but I've already tried to isolate the problem by replacing the ball joint and tie rod.

I know the wheel bearings need to be pressed by a machine but I found these bearings and hub It seems the bearings are already pressed into the hub so would i still need to take this to a machine shop since the rotor is attached to the hub or can I somehow get the rotor off and put the new hub and bearing assembly on with no problem?

 

Which CV joint is clicking?

 

I'm not sure why you keep thinking its the cv joint. I actually went and bought both front axles. But, I brought the car to a buddys shop where he has a lift and he even did a shake down on the car. We even went on a parking lot and did full 360 degree turns and didn't hear a "popping" that would generally be caused by a cv joint.

We only hear a slight click sound when putting weight on the right side by taking a medium left. He agreed it could be either brake pads ratting or a wheel bearing. He said to slightly hit the brakes while turning left to see if the sound went away. And it did not so that idea is out.

I could put on these 2 front axles but really dont think its going to get rid of the problem and I was planning on returning them to get my money back.

 

There are not a lot of components that can make reparative clicks on a turn. I have not been able to get out of you if any of the CV boots have been replaced. The replacement clamps never look like the original. If you vehicle clicks once on a turn who knows what that is but if it reparative click that is another story.

 

what was ripped?? if it was just the boot, you could have just replaced it $ 7 from dealer

And the wheel bearing being the cause of the click on turn ,it would be my first ,if that is what turns out to be the issue

 

Well the boots look pretty original, I did not mean to make them seem like brand new but they do look in good condition. The grease is from my hands touching the boot to check for rips, and they all seem good.