main cable only goes to starter , under hood fuse box and ABS fuse box if car has ABS ,,,,,, power to alternator goes through main fuse
that is why i asked him to remove the main fuse to eliminate everything but the starter and the abs, i asked him to remove the cable from starter but i do not know if he has done that yet and retested it and remove the abs fuses and retest it

 

if car has no abs there will not be an ABS fuse box ,,,,,,,,,does the car have ABS???

 

Oops. I must've been thinking of a different car.

 

Poorman212 -- there is a fusebox under the hood by the passenger strut tower, but there is no ABS fuse or relay. Could it be the other fusebox to the left of the pedals?

Everyone -- my initial measurements of 5 amps were made on a Fluke 23 multimeter. Measurements were reproducible and steady. I switched to an analog (meter with a mechanical needle) gauge, and the value fell to 0.2 amps. Anyone care to venture a thought on what is happening here? Neither instrument has been abused.

On your remarks about non-fused items which remain "hot": my experence is that the cigarette lighter remains hot, and there is a "main relay" above some electrical module buried deep in the dashboard: I don't know whether it is "hot", and its precise function is a mystery to me. Any thoughts?

 

I'd consider Fluke to be a good meter (got one myself) & I don't know what make is your analog meter.
- Can't find a Fluke 23 on their site - is it very old?
- Reading off the wrong scale on the analog meter?

FYI the "main relay" is a combination of 2 power relays combined into one plastic case. One relay switches power to the fuel pump. Other relay switches power to most of the solenoids & sensors in the engine compartment. That stuff is fused, but I don't remember whether the fuses are "upstream" of the relay. (Especially since I've never owned a 92 Accord.)

 

The moderators are correct, I missed it as I'm not that familiar with 90-94 models, IF the car does not have ABS the box could/would be empty, basically just a “dummy” box. Being empty would tell me that is does not have abs…but please confirm. The one inside to the left of the pedals is the "normal" one inside the car.
What/how did the battery test out?

 

The Fluke is a DMM bought about 10 years ago. No manual, so I have to check the website to find out whether I might have the wrong settings.

The analog meter is a Sears which had never been used before. Only reads to 1 amp, so I was very hesitant to ty it, but the very weak spark when connecting the ground cable to the (-) terminal made me think that maybe I wasn't experiencing 5 amps of draw.

Regarding the main relay, this car once a week will grind but not start. Starter motor is winding the engine up nicely, but no ignition. Either fuel or distributor. Could this main relay be causing both problems: drain when engine is off (short to ground through a relay coil) and occasional failure to energize the fuel pump?

 

Poorman -- can't find an empty box, but I don't have access to car except occasionally. Maybe today. Will check whether it has ABS. I can send a photo if you'd like.

Spend a moment and describe the battery test. Right now I disconnect the negative terminal to insert my current meter.

Will try to get the starter motor test done the next time I have access to the vehicle. Appreciate your sticking with me. Thanks to JimBlake, too.

 

I'd be inclined to trust the Fluke meter over the Sears one.
But the fact that you aren't blowing fuses in the Sears meter says it's not much above 1 amp.

 

Pushed the battery terminal clamps down as far as I could on the post and then tightened the clamp. Battery drain then dropped to 0.12 amps as read on the Fluke meter after a few days of driving the car. 12.57 VDC on the battery with everything off.

There is no ABS on the car (no indicator lamp on the dashboard and no fuse identified for it).

Isolated the starter motor and there was no change in drain --- still 0.12.

Pulled all fuses --- one at a time. The interior lamp fuse dropped the drain to 0.10 amps. Identified a broken overhead light bulb which we need to replace.

The ignition fuse (50 amp --- why so high?) dropped the drain to 0.02 amps. Now, what is making this draw on the ignition circuit? Beside the ignition switch, are the head and taillamps pulling on this fuse?

I'm getting more satisfied that we are moving "out of the woods", but would still like to address the last amps if possible.

Appreciate any thoughts and ideas. You guys are helping to keep my sanity.