92 accord, difficult to start when cold
#31
and what if it's out of an auto? (I feel dirty just saying that...lol) I saw a post with someone that asked about that, but there wasn't a reply... BTW thank you VERY much for helping me for several hours now
#32
what that means is all 4th gens use the same ECU and the autos have the additional TCU to control the transmission.
What you need to make sure is that you buy a Non-Vtec ECU (unless you have a v-tec motor)
#36
you need to test the ground wire going at the ECT sensor with an OHM meter.
I know you did some testing before but you have to have a break in the ground wire going to the ECT.
There is no reason you are getting the same code on different PCM's and a new ECT.
I know you did some testing before but you have to have a break in the ground wire going to the ECT.
There is no reason you are getting the same code on different PCM's and a new ECT.
#38
Not sure how I have been missing this thread....but I stay behind on reading these days.
There was a question about the connector, the only one I can think of that might get switched is thermo b (upper hose-turns fan on when car is off) and ECT. What color is the wire connector going to the ECT and Thermo B.
Are you sure the "parts" store sold you the correct switch, I would test it to be sure. The ECT should "vary" resistance as the temp changes....where a cooling fan switch (ie...thermo a) is a simple "on/off" at a preset temp range....EDIT: I see where you tested the switch, another question 200 (depends on the setting of your meter) is correct if you are at like -4 degrees? At lets say 60, assume you are in the US and it is spring/almost summer, by your readings you should be more in the 50 range.
This thread is getting long and I'm coming in WAY LATE....so if these have been answered and I missed that...ignore my questions...
There was a question about the connector, the only one I can think of that might get switched is thermo b (upper hose-turns fan on when car is off) and ECT. What color is the wire connector going to the ECT and Thermo B.
Are you sure the "parts" store sold you the correct switch, I would test it to be sure. The ECT should "vary" resistance as the temp changes....where a cooling fan switch (ie...thermo a) is a simple "on/off" at a preset temp range....EDIT: I see where you tested the switch, another question 200 (depends on the setting of your meter) is correct if you are at like -4 degrees? At lets say 60, assume you are in the US and it is spring/almost summer, by your readings you should be more in the 50 range.
This thread is getting long and I'm coming in WAY LATE....so if these have been answered and I missed that...ignore my questions...
Last edited by poorman212; 05-08-2012 at 07:09 PM.
#39
I'm gonna be getting the meter tomorrow to test it out... tomorrow it's supposed to be about 50º-55ºF around noon, what should the Ohms read? and I have to take my boys to daycare so my engine probably wont be completely cool by noon. so what Ohms should it also be reading at 170º?
The wires on the ECT are green on white and yellow on ? (I kind of have limited light right now, and it's a bit dirty...lol)
thermo B, and thermo A(I assume thermo A would be on the thermostat housing[same plug type]) both have a green plug, and the ECT (under distributor) is gray.
EDIT:
I just saw that you have a diagram showing the Ohms at different temps...lol
The wires on the ECT are green on white and yellow on ? (I kind of have limited light right now, and it's a bit dirty...lol)
thermo B, and thermo A(I assume thermo A would be on the thermostat housing[same plug type]) both have a green plug, and the ECT (under distributor) is gray.
EDIT:
I just saw that you have a diagram showing the Ohms at different temps...lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Locklear
General Tech Help
3
07-07-2010 03:48 PM
K@rl
General Tech Help
4
09-28-2007 02:57 PM