92 Accord LX Post-rebuild Oil-Pressure problem
#12
03-03-2011, 07:48 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Monticello, Indiana
Posts: 19
Final resolution?
Here's what has been found and fixed. Engine rebuild only has 300 miles on it at this point.
CEL code #6 AND Cooling fan running for 7 minutes after engine turned-off no matter how warm or cold
> Ended up being something stupidly simple, I accidentally switched two electrical-plugs on the pass.sd. head. Once wire-colors were retraced and everything connected right the code went away.
IDLE/START problem when cold
> My PCV hose ended up springing a leak so I had a regular old vacuum leak. Once I replaced it and the grommet everything idled and started like normal.
OTHER THINGS I INTEND ON PURSUING (due to it not being quit 100% just yet (but dang close!!)).
> Possible loss of spark power. (Idea from a friend about possible starting issues/fixes). I will measure resistance and conductivity on all plug-wires, Coil-wire and coil itself. Igniter is fairly new, Plugs are new NGK iridium, and the injectors are remanufactured/matched set with warranty.
> Since I had to remove cam and valve-trane and rebuild it, the cam's oil-seal is now leaking a bit and I can see it and smell it just a little. It was a new seal and was installed correctly (I thought anyway), but since it had been in and out twice I guess it got contaminated or split somehow.
Other than that It runs and idles great! Almost like a brand-new 92!
Any ideas on what else i should check? I have no codes right now and once these items are fixed and I have it consistent/broken-in I would like to take a roadtrip or two. In the meantime I'll try to get to the cancer (but that's for another thread).
Thanks guys! Couldn't have done it without you!!
Dan
CEL code #6 AND Cooling fan running for 7 minutes after engine turned-off no matter how warm or cold
> Ended up being something stupidly simple, I accidentally switched two electrical-plugs on the pass.sd. head. Once wire-colors were retraced and everything connected right the code went away.
IDLE/START problem when cold
> My PCV hose ended up springing a leak so I had a regular old vacuum leak. Once I replaced it and the grommet everything idled and started like normal.
OTHER THINGS I INTEND ON PURSUING (due to it not being quit 100% just yet (but dang close!!)).
> Possible loss of spark power. (Idea from a friend about possible starting issues/fixes). I will measure resistance and conductivity on all plug-wires, Coil-wire and coil itself. Igniter is fairly new, Plugs are new NGK iridium, and the injectors are remanufactured/matched set with warranty.
> Since I had to remove cam and valve-trane and rebuild it, the cam's oil-seal is now leaking a bit and I can see it and smell it just a little. It was a new seal and was installed correctly (I thought anyway), but since it had been in and out twice I guess it got contaminated or split somehow.
Other than that It runs and idles great! Almost like a brand-new 92!
Any ideas on what else i should check? I have no codes right now and once these items are fixed and I have it consistent/broken-in I would like to take a roadtrip or two. In the meantime I'll try to get to the cancer (but that's for another thread).
Thanks guys! Couldn't have done it without you!!
Dan
#13
03-03-2011, 09:38 PM
Sparkplug wires...
Do this in complete darkness with the engine cold, like maybe 4am. Open the hood, start the engine, & turn off the lights. Look for arcing (even a dull blue glow) around the plug wires or distributor cap. That would indicate spark is leaking out of the wires. This is in addition to the measurements you can make with a normal DMM.
Factory plug wires seem to last forever. They're pricey, but consider wires from the dealer. Lots of people like NGK wires too.
Do this in complete darkness with the engine cold, like maybe 4am. Open the hood, start the engine, & turn off the lights. Look for arcing (even a dull blue glow) around the plug wires or distributor cap. That would indicate spark is leaking out of the wires. This is in addition to the measurements you can make with a normal DMM.
Factory plug wires seem to last forever. They're pricey, but consider wires from the dealer. Lots of people like NGK wires too.
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