92 Accord no blink on ECU codes.
#1
92 Accord no blink on ECU codes.
Have 92 Accord 2.2. I have jumped the plug and turned key. check engine light comes on but no blinking and stays on. Have no start issue. fuel pump was bad replaced it (42 psi at rail). power at injectors, spark at plugs, resistance at injectors is good. Have replaced master relay, ECU, and injector resistor. rebuilt motor 20000 miles ago all was good. car in good shape trying to keep going for grandkid. any help would be apricated.
#2
Find the starter in the car, do a light tap with a screw driver and a hammer. Right after you do this, have someone in the car try and start it (you have to do it right away after the tap). See if it starts, if it does, it could be the starter that is going bad.
#3
Along the same lines as the previous post, please provide us a better description of the no-start problem. Is the starter motor cranking the engine?
If the starter is cranking the engine, then you will have to narrow down if this is a fuel or spark issue.
If the starter is cranking the engine, then you will have to narrow down if this is a fuel or spark issue.
#4
All the things that were replaced & checked (fuel pump, fuel pressure, spark) apply to the case where the starter motor DOES work, so I'll assume that.
How exactly did you check for spark?
Have you pulled out a spark plug to check if it's wet (flooded) or also whether there's any fuel at all (injectors not firing)?
Plenum's suggestion applies if the starter is NOT cranking the engine. And it works better if you hit the starter WHILE someone holds the key in the START position. (don't get caught in the belts in case it does start to crank)
How exactly did you check for spark?
Have you pulled out a spark plug to check if it's wet (flooded) or also whether there's any fuel at all (injectors not firing)?
Plenum's suggestion applies if the starter is NOT cranking the engine. And it works better if you hit the starter WHILE someone holds the key in the START position. (don't get caught in the belts in case it does start to crank)
#5
All the things that were replaced & checked (fuel pump, fuel pressure, spark) apply to the case where the starter motor DOES work, so I'll assume that.
How exactly did you check for spark?
Have you pulled out a spark plug to check if it's wet (flooded) or also whether there's any fuel at all (injectors not firing)?
Plenum's suggestion applies if the starter is NOT cranking the engine. And it works better if you hit the starter WHILE someone holds the key in the START position. (don't get caught in the belts in case it does start to crank)
How exactly did you check for spark?
Have you pulled out a spark plug to check if it's wet (flooded) or also whether there's any fuel at all (injectors not firing)?
Plenum's suggestion applies if the starter is NOT cranking the engine. And it works better if you hit the starter WHILE someone holds the key in the START position. (don't get caught in the belts in case it does start to crank)
#6
cranks fine. really feels like no ground pulse. as stated when checking codes the light just lights up. I can't find anything on that. was thinking maybe a ground issue. I have spark at plugs, 42 psi at rail, power to injectors. don't really have a good way to check for ground pulse just used a probe on + and next to terminal on plug with no action. not a big fan of just replacing stuff till get lucky. not sure if dizzy will show spark even if a sensor Is bad. not used to all them in dizzy. I'm more of a domestic guy over import but up till this point this one has been a good on for kids and grandkids now. got me ready to bang head against wall. haha
#7
Check engine light is supposed to come on for about 2 seconds when you first turn on the key (bulb check).
CEL turned on solid when you jumper the SCS connector, is supposed to mean there aren't any stored codes.
You say plugs were dry, but did you check after trying to start? If you take out the plugs right after trying you should be able so smell some fuel. So maybe the injectors aren't firing? Pressure at the rail is only part of it. The injectors need power full-time on one lead (same color wire for all 4), and the PCU switches the grounds (different colors) of the individual injectors. And maybe the injectors just don't work, but that's a big coincidence for all 4 of them...
CEL turned on solid when you jumper the SCS connector, is supposed to mean there aren't any stored codes.
You say plugs were dry, but did you check after trying to start? If you take out the plugs right after trying you should be able so smell some fuel. So maybe the injectors aren't firing? Pressure at the rail is only part of it. The injectors need power full-time on one lead (same color wire for all 4), and the PCU switches the grounds (different colors) of the individual injectors. And maybe the injectors just don't work, but that's a big coincidence for all 4 of them...
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