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92 accord, VERY high idle pulse

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Old 02-10-2010 | 09:02 PM
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Default 92 accord, VERY high idle pulse

I've gone through these forums for the past few days and found that I should clean out my IACV, and tighten my FITV making sure to just tighten snuggly..., plenty of coolant, and it's burped (I just replaced the water pump and all belts) but now I'm back to square 1... well probably square -5...lol... Before it would just pulse from 1k - 2/2.5k... now it's up to 3.5/4k... any suggestions? I absolutely LOVE my CB7, but I'm also on a very tight budget
 
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Old 02-10-2010 | 09:47 PM
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Does the engine idle normally after it warms up a few minutes?

well to diagnose the FITV, have the car warmed up and remove the flatplate cover.
When the engine is warm you SHOULD NOT hear air bypassing in there.
A quick check for the IACV is to have the engine warmed up, and unplug the electrical connector to see if the idle drops a couple hundred RPM.

Has there been any other work done to the car?
You can feel free to tell us the whole story. LOL
 
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Old 02-10-2010 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hondadude
Does the engine idle normally after it warms up a few minutes?

well to diagnose the FITV, have the car warmed up and remove the flatplate cover.
When the engine is warm you SHOULD NOT hear air bypassing in there.
A quick check for the IACV is to have the engine warmed up, and unplug the electrical connector to see if the idle drops a couple hundred RPM.

Has there been any other work done to the car?
You can feel free to tell us the whole story. LOL
no it started idling at the extreme RPM's when I was just a few blocks from home (after running ~20min) however the entire trip it has been pulsing, and every once in a while it would idle around 2k(without a pulse).

I'll attempt the FITV tomorrow (rainning, and cold right now...lol). ya when I unplug the IACV the idle does drop with shorter and quicker pulses (kinda sounds like it's bogging).

ya theres been a lot of work done on the car... replaced head (with a used, but resurfaced, and all new parts, replaced head gasket (I wont listen to that friend again...lol) a few coolant hoses, alternator, ALL belts, and water pump, I've done all the work but the water pump, and newer set of belts(didnt have the time to do it myself), and that was done about 3 weeks ago

P.S. the head was replaced 3 years ago, with a new gasket, timing belt, alternator, battery, and balance belt. I had to replace the head gasket again about a year ago. Then 3 weeks ago, when I had the water pump replaced, they also replaced timing belt, balance belt, (those 2 were free...lol) and the drive belts.
 

Last edited by XxBladesxX; 02-10-2010 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010 | 03:42 AM
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I found that whenever I undo anything near the throttle body, I have to reset my ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp radio/backup fuse for a minute.

Do that and start the car up and see if that solved the problem. There are three parts that allow air to bypass the throttle plate (the FITV, IACV, and air boost valves).

What you want to do is block each port past the throttle body to see if you can stabilize the idle. Two of the ports are inside of the throttle bore (IACV on top and FITV on bottom). Remove air intake tube and plug the FITV port with your finger once the engine is warm. If idle stabilizes, that is your problem. Plugging the IACV should cause the car to stall out. The air boost valve has its port on tube going to the throttle body. Pinch that one off that hose.

See: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...4110#post34110
 
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Old 02-11-2010 | 06:49 AM
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ohh and I forgot to post a little earlier, I tried starting my car again, and the pulse has sped up, and while cold (afraid ot let it warm up when idling this high) the pulse only maxes at 3.5 instead of 4/4.5, and I just notice that I smell fresh gas from under the hood, but I cant spot a leak :/

I'll try your suggestion tomorrow (or later today) thank you
 
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Old 02-11-2010 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
I found that whenever I undo anything near the throttle body, I have to reset my ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp radio/backup fuse for a minute.

Do that and start the car up and see if that solved the problem. There are three parts that allow air to bypass the throttle plate (the FITV, IACV, and air boost valves).

What you want to do is block each port past the throttle body to see if you can stabilize the idle. Two of the ports are inside of the throttle bore (IACV on top and FITV on bottom). Remove air intake tube and plug the FITV port with your finger once the engine is warm. If idle stabilizes, that is your problem. Plugging the IACV should cause the car to stall out. The air boost valve has its port on tube going to the throttle body. Pinch that one off that hose.

See: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...4110#post34110
ok so I attempted those trouble shooting steps and well I'm a little confused as to how you worded the locations of the IACV, and FITV ports "Two of the ports are inside of the throttle bore" arnt they on the exterior? So I attempted to pinch off the hoses (as they were connected) and I got a reaction from 3 heres an overview of what I've done
 
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Old 02-11-2010 | 04:34 PM
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You are right, all three of those valves are bolted on the exterior of the intake manifold and all of them can allow air to enter the engine.

The source (ports) of that air has to be filtered and comes from an opening inside of the throttle body in front of the throttle plate. All you had to do was remove that big black intake tube, start your car, and put your finger over two holes (do one at a time). Then you would have unplugged that vacuum hose (#23) and pinched that off.

Look at step 1 and 2 on this thread. That poster shows the two ports inside of the throttle body.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=28486
 
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Old 02-11-2010 | 05:25 PM
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ok so I got it to normal operating temp and plugged the 2 ports (seperatly) and they both still have suction, as per your link suggests, I'm gonna tare my FITV apart and test the thermostat

OHH and as to hondadude's suggestion, I removed the plate, and didnt hear or feal any air flow (but again this is after I tightened it)
 

Last edited by XxBladesxX; 02-11-2010 at 05:30 PM.
  #9  
Old 02-11-2010 | 06:07 PM
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When you plug up the FITV port, does the engine idle stabilize? (The car needs to be at normal operating temperature for very little vacuum).

When you plugged up the IACV port, did the engine stall? This one will always have vacuum.

You didn't mention plugging up hose #22. Just pull it off the intake tube and cover the end with your finger.
 
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Old 02-11-2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
When you plug up the FITV port, does the engine idle stabilize? (The car needs to be at normal operating temperature for very little vacuum).

When you plugged up the IACV port, did the engine stall? This one will always have vacuum.

You didn't mention plugging up hose #22. Just pull it off the intake tube and cover the end with your finger.
no, both of them didn't change, nor did they have an effect on the pulse/RPM's, and ya sorry I forgot to mention, ya I plugged hose #22 and it didnt seam to change anything but as the RPM's hit the low point and continues, it made the TB make a new sound... kinda sounded like a suction noise, but as I said earlier, the RPM's were not affected, and ya the engine was warmed up... well kinda, I have a 160º popping coolant thermostat, so it's rare that my fan comes on, however the temp was reading normal, and I let it sit there running for 5 minafter it hit norm temp to make sure it was warm(well maybe not 5, but I had a smoke...lol)

so now my assumption would be that I have a leak somewhere else... any suggestions? I'm gonna start by double checking all the vacume hoses.
 

Last edited by XxBladesxX; 02-11-2010 at 06:40 PM.



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