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'92 Alternator removal

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  #1  
Old 03-09-2010 | 02:39 PM
irhunter's Avatar
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From: Greenville, Maine
Default '92 Alternator removal

Hi,

This is my first time removing my alternator.

I have removed: PS pump, both belts, and what Chiltons calls: adjusting bolt (head is visable under alt.), alternator nut (which is under the pully), two metal parts which came off with the adjusting bolt, and upper through bolt.

The manual says there is a "lower through bolt" which needs to come out. I am guessing this is what the "alternator nut" was threaded on? But, I can't see/feel the head of the bolt. I feel something in that area, but it feels more like a smooth round head not designed to take a wrench.

Right now the alternator is loose enough for me to get the belt off, but it kind of feels like it is still attached to something. I don't want to reef on it and break something.

Do you think I need to remove a "lower through bolt"? If so, access hints would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Roy

'92, AT, LX, 2-door
 
  #2  
Old 03-09-2010 | 10:06 PM
eros's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: RF, WI
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The lower through bolt is what the tensioner bolt threaded into. It doesn't have a hex head, it has a flat on it, nevermind, just grab it and pull it out (or push the threaded part, it's what you took the nut off) The bolt will make sense once you remove it and the alternator.
 
  #3  
Old 03-09-2010 | 11:34 PM
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alternator has 1 bolt upper 14 mm head and a 12 mm nut bottom that need to be removed

Once you loosen up the lower nut 12 mm... back off the belt adjuster bolt 10 mm , remove the 12 mm nut bottom<< there is a little bracket from the adjuster bolt that goes over the bottom bolt , need to slip off that bracket
 
  #4  
Old 03-10-2010 | 10:33 AM
irhunter's Avatar
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OK Guys,

Thanks. I got the thing out. I ended up not removing the lower bolt. Once everything except the lower bolt was out (upper bolt, lower nut, adjusting bolt and little bracket) , I rocked the alternator up and down until the lower bolt loosened and the alternator came out. After seeing the set-up, I now think minor whacks on the lower bolt, to back it out, would have been a better approach. Using something to hit the end of the lower bolt which will not mess up the threads.

I will probably start a new thread before this job is over as I am doing the t-belt.

Roy
 
  #5  
Old 03-10-2010 | 11:45 AM
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I'm pretty sure there's a write-up about the timing belt over in the DIY section.
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-2010 | 03:34 PM
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Yes, thanks. In fact, I have several great detailed descriptions of the t-belt job...plus the Haynes, Chiltons, and factory manuals. I can't picture anything coming up that isn't covered by one of the write-ups I have.

But, then I couldn't even get the alternator off! I have done t-belts and chains on non-transverse-mounted motors. So, we'll see.

Roy
 
  #7  
Old 03-10-2010 | 04:37 PM
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From: Houston, TX
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Be prepared for the crank pulley bolt to be a major PIA to remove.

Also, get the front balance shaft seal retainer, if your accord doesn't have one installed. It is there to prevent a major oil leak by stopping a seal from potentially popping out. Its ~$5 part that you should be able to return (ask the dealership parts dept. before you purchase) if the retainer is already installed.
 
  #8  
Old 03-11-2010 | 01:34 PM
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Thanks.

I have the retainer.

I tried to do the crank bolt myself using a 4' breaker bar. Broke two nice old Wizard-brand 1/2" drive extensions. So, I took it to an auto shop and the guy used a 3/4" drive impact wrench...no deal. I then took it to a place that repairs heavy equipment...their massive compressor and 3/4" impact gun broke the bolt loose in a heartbeat.
 
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