so heres the deal...bought this honda and crapped the bed in town yesterday...wouldnt start turned over but fuel pump wasnt working...go there today and jiggle the key alittle while in on position and it starts up so im assuming ignition needs to be replaced...i get home and now its sputtering at 2500rpm like its tacked out and has issues shifting gears...i have to let off the gas peddle for it to shift...its automatic with 183k miles and has been off the road for three years...i put high octane in the takn to slightly stabilize the old fuel in the tank and it improved performance alittle but still cant seem to go above 2500 rpm without it sputtering bad...it ran great yesterday (except when it died) and today untill i got home???
good plugs ngk and cleaned them
oil level is fine no smoking
changed dist cap and rotor...(doing wires next)
engine trouble code reads 14 15 low ignition voltage and air control valve???
ANY SUGGESTIONS!!!
im thinking coil and wires???

 

first off was the ECU converted to a 96 one or something? if not then your code shouldn't be a P-code. the P-codes are for OBDII. the 93's originally had OBDI and it would be a 1 or 2 digit code, checked by counting the CEL light flashes. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/

if it has sat for that long, it might be a good idea to clean the IAC valve and the EGR valve and throttle body. there is also something you can put in your tank that is a fuel stabilizer. techron also helps to clean the valves and fuel lines which you put in your tank. having sat that long you could probably use to replace your fuel filter which is under the hood against the firewall under the black vacuum box.

 

sorry i missread how to read the codes...its code 14 and 15 low ignition voltage and idle air control valve (iac)???...would the coil have anything to do with the low ignition voltage???

 

it could be that perhaps. the last time i had an ignition problem it was my ignitor which is also inside the Distributor. the rotor, cap and ignitor are usually the main things on the distributor that go bad. when was the last time the wires were replaced? i know you said that was next in your first post.

 

i would assume along time ago,lol...car was off the road for 3-4 years and the plugs were pretty old so the wires would be just as old... cap and rotor are good but with the not starting the other day and then this not running right problem i was maybe thinking hairline fracture in the coil and not getting enough juice to the distrbuter...this is the first time ever working on a honda for me and it seems everything on these things when theres an issue seems to be electrical in nature and i dont want to spend 500 bucks replaceing this and that till i find the problem...lmao!

 

oh bye the way wheres the iac valve located???

 

In the picture, the IACV is #15 bolted to the intake manifold.

Code 15 is "ignition output signal". That's the signal/circuit where the ECU tells the ignitor to fire the coil. It can be a bad ignitor (inside the distributor). But it can also be bad wiring between the ECU and the distributor. Look at the wiring pluge for dirty/loose/corroded connections. Maybe a loose or frayed wire inside the distributor.

Sometimes places like AutoZone can test ignitors - call em.

 

cleaned the aic and it ran GREAT...but then i got into town and it died while going down the road at cruise speed...i ended up coasting into the same exact place i broke down a few days ago...and there it sits...no fuel pump prime/no spark/i here the main relay clicking and it at some times dhoots a code 15 at me...but at other times while trying tio start it the check engine light turns off after its put in position 2 and turned over???so sometime it codes and others it doesnt,lol...iether way it still wont start...im going to pull the main relay and change that out today and give it a shot...is it normal everytime i put the key in position 2 before cranking,the d4 light and nuetral light come on for about 3 seconds,then the d4 light turns off at the same time as the check engine light???i read that the main relay rarely fails while driving so any other suggestions???...maybe the ecu??? the dash lights stay on after it dies so i assume not the ignition switch as i read the dash lights go out when this happens...fyi windshield leaks on the passenger side floor when it rains...(moisture/corrosion on ecu)...either way thats getting pulled for inspection today also...

 

igniter was one of the first things im testing today when i get there...but i was wondering if that would cause the fuel pump to not prime also???thats why my first step is going to be main relay...if that looks good then i'll tackle the igniter wiring for relutance testing and power...along with a coil wiring test...

 

How are you testing for lack of fuel?

Are you getting 12v to the BLK/YEL wire at the dist with key to "on"/pos II?

"is it normal everytime i put the key in position 2 before cranking,the d4 light and nuetral light come on for about 3 seconds,then the d4 light turns off at the same time as the check engine light???"
- this to me-if I'm reading right-is normal and also rules out the main relay.