ok so im back...main relay looked absolutly clean and perfect no fractures...checked igniter in dist.and number 4 wire sheathing was cracked and wire inside of it was green with corrosion,so i removed and just made a new wire to attach to the clip(wire diagram says this is the one the connects to the ecu)hopefully this is correct...but i took out the ecu anyway for closer inspection...some of the contacts had green corrosion so i wanted to bring to the house for cleaning...inside both the tcu and ecu look perfect,no issues with the board or caps,and resistors... but tcu had some greem corosion as well so i cleaned all the contacts on that also...

i can here the fuel pump kick on its vague sound but i can here it and when i jump the yellow wire it makes the same sound so im hoping it was just that wire not contacting the ecu from the igniter...headed back to town to try now...WISH ME LUCK!

 

Good luck! Again if you have a test light or volt meter, please check that the BLK/YEL has 12v to ground.

 

The CEL & D4 lamps are supposed to come on for about 2 seconds as a bulb-check. That's normal.

But I don't think that proves the main relay is OK. The main relay is really 2 relays in the same plastic case. One of those relays switches power to the fuel pump, and if that one has cracked solder it won't have anything to do with the CEL & D4 lamps coming on or not.

Cleaning up the green corrosion is a good thing. You can use some dielectric grease (sparkplug boot grease) to help seal some plugs after you clean em up.

 

thanx for all the help jim,poorman and honda lady...i got the car home...i have a friend with a tow dolly ....the fuel pump primes when in the #2 position i just couldnt hear it where it was parked(at a carwash)but i hear it now...i did a coil test and that has power but doesnt flash when turned over with a light tester on it...i replaced the plug wires dist.cap and rotor and believe my issue may lie in the ignitor in the dist....one of the wires(prong 4 on ignitor)was cracked and green with corrosion so i changed that out...diagrams say that wire goes to the ecu,but still no start so im going to replace the icm and see if that helps...wish me LUCK!

 

i put tester on fuel pump lead and yes its getting 12 volts...sorry guys i didnt think that post earlier went through...i also did put dielectric grease on...I was wondering through...WHY the HELL would honda put there computers in such a crappy place,lol...im mean really!on the FLOOR for everyone to KICK!