93 Accord EX: stalls/stutters intermittently
#1
93 Accord EX: stalls/stutters intermittently
1993 Accord EX, 282k
Starts instantly. Runs fine.
BUT-
When started from cool (overnight/work-day/half-hour/etc) it will start beautifully, but shortly after I take off (say 15-30 seconds), the RPM drops to idle, it runs rough..like it's trying to stall, and I cannot accelerate. After several (5-15) seconds of this, normal response returns. If I happen to have the pedal depressed at that moment, it lurches forward, but during that window, it seems to ignore the pedal entirely.
No CHECK ENGINE light comes on, but I jumpered the plug to read the codes, and the ABS light flashes 7 1. I've disconnected the battery and verified the codes are gone, repeated the routine immediately after one of the sputtering sessions...same result 7 1.
NOW- the odd thing is, my dashboard lights for both doors and trunk have begun to randomly/spastically flash. By that, I mean they occasionally flash with a rhythm, but usually, they come on, dim to 50% or even drop to almost out, then increase in brightness, sometimes back to 50%, sometimes back to ON...and not with a specific rhythm (like the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF I'd associate with an alternator issue. Battery is less than a year old and is charging. Also, my dashboard's BRAKE LAMP light has commonly begun illuminating, despite cleaning the corrosion from the tail lamp sockets. (Don't think it's related to my stall issue but mention it just-in-case, since I'm obviously not qualified to say)
The shop I dropped it off at, couldn't make it reproduce the problem despite keeping it for 4 days. My only GUESS is that it only affects the car during that initial window and ONLY IF the accelerator is within a certain range. i.e. the mechanic had a lead foot and he was never in the midst of a casual acceleration during that critical window.
Suggestions welcome....
Update: Okay, I've since learned that, given that I'm jumpering a BLUE connector AND it's the ABS light that I'm counting, I'm almost certainly reading ABS code 71....which isn't relevant to my stall issue (I pulled the ABS fuse long ago due to another issue)....and since my CHECK ENGINE light isn't on, I'm betting I have NO CODES to read...which makes any suggestions even more helpful...
Starts instantly. Runs fine.
BUT-
When started from cool (overnight/work-day/half-hour/etc) it will start beautifully, but shortly after I take off (say 15-30 seconds), the RPM drops to idle, it runs rough..like it's trying to stall, and I cannot accelerate. After several (5-15) seconds of this, normal response returns. If I happen to have the pedal depressed at that moment, it lurches forward, but during that window, it seems to ignore the pedal entirely.
No CHECK ENGINE light comes on, but I jumpered the plug to read the codes, and the ABS light flashes 7 1. I've disconnected the battery and verified the codes are gone, repeated the routine immediately after one of the sputtering sessions...same result 7 1.
NOW- the odd thing is, my dashboard lights for both doors and trunk have begun to randomly/spastically flash. By that, I mean they occasionally flash with a rhythm, but usually, they come on, dim to 50% or even drop to almost out, then increase in brightness, sometimes back to 50%, sometimes back to ON...and not with a specific rhythm (like the ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF I'd associate with an alternator issue. Battery is less than a year old and is charging. Also, my dashboard's BRAKE LAMP light has commonly begun illuminating, despite cleaning the corrosion from the tail lamp sockets. (Don't think it's related to my stall issue but mention it just-in-case, since I'm obviously not qualified to say)
The shop I dropped it off at, couldn't make it reproduce the problem despite keeping it for 4 days. My only GUESS is that it only affects the car during that initial window and ONLY IF the accelerator is within a certain range. i.e. the mechanic had a lead foot and he was never in the midst of a casual acceleration during that critical window.
Suggestions welcome....
Update: Okay, I've since learned that, given that I'm jumpering a BLUE connector AND it's the ABS light that I'm counting, I'm almost certainly reading ABS code 71....which isn't relevant to my stall issue (I pulled the ABS fuse long ago due to another issue)....and since my CHECK ENGINE light isn't on, I'm betting I have NO CODES to read...which makes any suggestions even more helpful...
Last edited by johnny121b; 11-12-2013 at 08:13 PM. Reason: Solved my major issue.
#4
Check the voltage on the tps from idle to WOT, you should see a steady change in the voltage thru the range (from ~.5 to ~4.5).
I hate suggesting replacing parts without confirming things but a lazy O2 sensor can cause all kinds of strange things. Have you noticed a change in the MPG?
I hate suggesting replacing parts without confirming things but a lazy O2 sensor can cause all kinds of strange things. Have you noticed a change in the MPG?
#5
Was finally able to measure the TPS. 0.493v - 4.43v with a smooth rise as I rotated the wheel. I've not noticed a change in mileage- that I couldn't explain with different driving habits & questionable gas. Certainly nothing drastic.
#7
It's close, actually.
- Mine doesn't stall out.
- It doesn't seem to do it while idling. It almost seems like it's hell-bent on lowering the RPM TO idle during the trouble.
- Mine will only do it for a few seconds.
- It will only do it after the car's cooled down for about an hour.
#8
I just thought my problem was resolved. It was fine for a few days, but started doing it again. I sucked-it-up and lived with it until this past weekend. About an hour into a drive, the CHECK ENGINE light FINALLY came on. I pulled over at BestBuy (which was nearby and I knew I could get on the net there) and read the code: "43" I went inside and looked up the code; "FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM". I made a quick stop by Harbor Freight and bought myself a fuel pressure test kit ($20).... My fuel pressure is 35PSI....
AND I did notice that my total mileage on THIS tank has suddenly dropped by at least 50-75 miles. I normally get around 350 miles/tank, but it's looking like I won't get 300 this time around....
O2 sensor??
Which one??
AND I did notice that my total mileage on THIS tank has suddenly dropped by at least 50-75 miles. I normally get around 350 miles/tank, but it's looking like I won't get 300 this time around....
O2 sensor??
Which one??
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