I've replaced those seals at least 5 times in the last 4 years or so, they never last long. The last time was last month, after this problem started. Didn't even last a week this time but the misfire continued, even right after the seals were done. Right now, I'm getting nothing in 4 and 3, a lot of oil in 2, and a good amount in 1. In the past, 4 is usually the worst, 3 isn't too bad, very little in 2, and 1 is usually dry.

The check engine light flickers occasionally after the car has been running for about 20 to 30 minutes, as does the oil light but not together or all the time. I believe this is an OBD car, I thought there weren't codes so I don't know how to check codes on it.

The problem is pretty much all the time, but definitely worse with revs below 3 grand on the tach. I have to shift above 4 grand and keep it running above 3 grand to keep it running smoothly. We did the water thing last month, didn't find anything but will do it again.

I replaced the EGR valve last month when I first started having problems but will do your tests.

 

Your car is OBD1, which means that you can't plug a scanner into it. You can check it by shorting an electrical connector. You connector is behind the passenger kick panel. See this thread https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...l-codes-35962/

Since you have a flickering check engine light and oil pressure light, I'd check and clean ground connections. I clean grounds by disconnecting, then use a sand paper or a wire brush to clean the eyelet and bolt of any corrosion.

A shop manual will help for ground locations. Go to this site to download a manual: hondahookup.com/manuals/ You will have to register for the site, and there is a non-US 93 manual you can download. It may not be identical to your car, but it will help out a lot. G101 is an important ground (page 23-17 in that shop manual) that is attached below the distributor on or near the thermostat housing. Definitely find and clean up that ground.

EDIT:
For oil in the spark plug tubes, see this video:
Hopefully you missed something that this video covers. If not, you may want to inspect the valve cover and lower seal area for any damage when removing the old seals. The sealing surface may be have been scrateched/damaged not allowing a good seal.

 

Either I'm doing something wrong or I don't have any codes, but I think I finally found something.

One of the wires on the connection to the HO2S sensor is broken. This is the Heated Oxygen Sensor going thru the exhaust manifold heat shield into the exhaust manifold. There are three wires. Black, white, and green. The green one is broken.

Could this be causing the symptoms I've described? If so, how would I fix it? If I remember correctly from when I replaced the cylinder head, it's a pain to get that shield off over the sensor so I can get to it. Can I drive with the sensor disconnected until I can replace it this weekend?

 

If the wiring is damaged, then you can repair the wiring.

If a wire is broken to the O2 sensor, your check engine light should have turned on.

Turn your key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Does the check engine light turn on for about two seconds to do the bulb check?

The fuel pump will also turn on during the CEL bulb check to build pressure in the fuel system. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc... and listen carefully. This can help in the future if you have a no start and is a quick and easy check for signal to the fuel pump.

 

Yes, the check engine light comes on. Not sure about the fuel pump, will check tomorrow and will attempt to fix that wire on Friday. Sure hope that's it!

 

Fixed the broken wire, still having the same problems! Really getting frustrated!

I tried checking the check engine code again. After shorting the blue connector and turning the ignition to II, the check engine light, the battery light, the oil light, and the SRS light turn on. The SRS light is the only one going out right now, the check engine light doesn't go out or flash. I can't hear the fuel pump go on, but it must be working, it doesn't run well but I can drive the car.

 

Maybe we are getting closer to the culprit.

There is a 7.5 amp radio/backup fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Fuse #2 and #12 fuses look to be for the ECU in the interior fuse box. Check if any of these fuses are blown, replace if necessary.

Get the car running and to operating temperature. Unplug the connector to a sensor like the EGR valve. Let us know if the check engine light turns on and also what code (if any) you get when checking for codes.

 

All the fuses are good, although the interior fuse box didn't show anything for the #12 fuse but there was a 10 amp fuse there. The only ECU marked fuse was the #2 fuse.

I unplugged the EGR sensor, no check engine light and no codes when checked.

 

Clean the grounds, especially the G101 that is under the thermostat housing. If you still don't get a check engine light or code from the previous test, I think you need a new ECU.

You need an ECU that is identical for your car (so a LX ECU from a manual transmission accord).

The part number for you vehicle is 37820-PT3-A05, and is only on a 93 LX manual transmission vehicle. You can search car-part.com by price or distance for a replacement. A U-Pull-It yard may have one too, or ebay.

 

I've already looked for the G101 ground, I haven't found a ground in that location, I'll try again tomorrow.

There are four ECU's that match my car within 50 miles of me, guess I may have a road trip ahead of me! I've already replaced it once, car got flooded parked in front of my house 3 or 4 years ago. Got it from a junk yard but didn't know it had to match exactly, don't know what it was. Thanks for the part number!