93 accord Se auto tcu code 14
#1
93 accord Se auto tcu code 14
How do I diagnose why I am getting this code? It's the D4 light that flashes me the code 14, not the check engine light.
I opened the tcu and nothing looks fried visually, can I test the components while on the board or do I need to remove resistors and capacitors to test them? I have a dmm and soldering equipment...
It's an SE model, 248k miles, check engine light came on a few days ago, seems like 'limp mode' I.e. power delivery seems weak and chokes right off idle, revs to 3200 rpm max before rev limiter kicks in, shifts odd, takes a bit of finesse to get it to shift through entire gearbox, if hurrying it I had it not want to shift out of 2nd once but probably because I was driving frustrated with it in traffic going up a hill.any help please!
Side note: not sure if this is the same problem, but it rained today and I had my headlights on, and I noticed the tach not working, headlights off and tach started working again. 93 accord Se 2.2 stock auto
Was driving well before except for some minor 'OD torque convertor' acting backwards I.e. cruising at 65 then nudging the gas would make it engage, letting off it disengages. Maybe it's just me but that's backwards, cruising at 60 to 65 and having to add throttle to get the '5th' to kick in... anyway it's a minor side note, just trying to give as much info as possible
I opened the tcu and nothing looks fried visually, can I test the components while on the board or do I need to remove resistors and capacitors to test them? I have a dmm and soldering equipment...
It's an SE model, 248k miles, check engine light came on a few days ago, seems like 'limp mode' I.e. power delivery seems weak and chokes right off idle, revs to 3200 rpm max before rev limiter kicks in, shifts odd, takes a bit of finesse to get it to shift through entire gearbox, if hurrying it I had it not want to shift out of 2nd once but probably because I was driving frustrated with it in traffic going up a hill.any help please!
Side note: not sure if this is the same problem, but it rained today and I had my headlights on, and I noticed the tach not working, headlights off and tach started working again. 93 accord Se 2.2 stock auto
Was driving well before except for some minor 'OD torque convertor' acting backwards I.e. cruising at 65 then nudging the gas would make it engage, letting off it disengages. Maybe it's just me but that's backwards, cruising at 60 to 65 and having to add throttle to get the '5th' to kick in... anyway it's a minor side note, just trying to give as much info as possible
Last edited by joehonda83; 06-09-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: adding notes
#2
For the TCM code 14, some possible causes:
Measure the voltage between TCM terminal D16 and A26 or A25.
Is there at least 5 volts?
Yes – Check for loose TCM connectors. Can also be faulty TCM.
2. Turn ignition off.
Disconnect the 26P harness connector from the ECM and the 26P harness connector from the TCM.
Check for continuity in the Brn/Blk wire between ECM harness connector pin A18 and TCM harness connector pin D16.
Is there continuity?
If no continuity, repair open in Brn/Blk wire in the harness connectors.
If there is continuity, can be faulty TCM or ECM.
- Faulty TCM
- Faulty ECM
- Short or open in Shift Acknowledge wire (Brn/Blk) between TCM and ECM
Measure the voltage between TCM terminal D16 and A26 or A25.
Is there at least 5 volts?
Yes – Check for loose TCM connectors. Can also be faulty TCM.
2. Turn ignition off.
Disconnect the 26P harness connector from the ECM and the 26P harness connector from the TCM.
Check for continuity in the Brn/Blk wire between ECM harness connector pin A18 and TCM harness connector pin D16.
Is there continuity?
If no continuity, repair open in Brn/Blk wire in the harness connectors.
If there is continuity, can be faulty TCM or ECM.
#3
I think bad tcu
So how do I check the board in the tcu for faulty parts cause I think something in my tcu is faulty, I have continuity from the ecu to tcu, but no voltage going to tcu. Also it's a brown with white wire not brown with black on my particular honda and I verified this with the wiring diagram in my Chilton manual.
I had continuity from the ecu a18 to tcu d16 which is the brown wire with white tracer.
I do not have any VDC on the tcu pin d16 (shift acknowledge) when compared to the ecu pin(s) a25 or a26 which is ground.
So this would indicate a faulty tcu most likely since there is no open in the wiring and no insulation breakdown to ground, correct? No voltage to the shift acknowledge wire on tcu...
I realize I check for VDC on tcu connection and ground connection on ecu so I went back and retested for VDC and ground using only the tcu connectors and still less than .5 Mvdc (millionth of a volt DC)
Also the headlight on/ttach not working problem went away today... I dont want to buy a used tcu I want to repair my current one. From what I have looked up online this seems possible and seems to be a problem with this model. Does anyone know how I can test the individual resistors and capacitors that are prone to go out on these? I'd much rather attempt my own resolver job than just swap out with used parts that will probably show the same symptoms in the near future
I had continuity from the ecu a18 to tcu d16 which is the brown wire with white tracer.
I do not have any VDC on the tcu pin d16 (shift acknowledge) when compared to the ecu pin(s) a25 or a26 which is ground.
So this would indicate a faulty tcu most likely since there is no open in the wiring and no insulation breakdown to ground, correct? No voltage to the shift acknowledge wire on tcu...
I realize I check for VDC on tcu connection and ground connection on ecu so I went back and retested for VDC and ground using only the tcu connectors and still less than .5 Mvdc (millionth of a volt DC)
Also the headlight on/ttach not working problem went away today... I dont want to buy a used tcu I want to repair my current one. From what I have looked up online this seems possible and seems to be a problem with this model. Does anyone know how I can test the individual resistors and capacitors that are prone to go out on these? I'd much rather attempt my own resolver job than just swap out with used parts that will probably show the same symptoms in the near future
Last edited by joehonda83; 06-10-2014 at 04:43 PM.
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