hey that exlacly that happend to my 93 accord and i replaced the fuel pump and the distributor but that car didnt start and i replaced the mfi relay that its under the steering wheel its gray and bronw that all it was my has been working good and that happento to my friends 92 accord and we replaced the mfi relay and it started at the first try thats what it was .

 

The error code is 15 I believe which is ignition output signal. And the d4 light is blinking aswell. I am getting voltage to the ignition control module. What is the next step? I have replaced rotor, cap, and plugs. Thanks

 

The D4 light flashing means the TCU detected a problem. Short the service connector like you do for the check engine light, and count the D4 light flashes to get the transmission code.

 

there are multiple codes: 1, 2, 5, 7, 8, and 14. My check engine light is no longer flashing I will try it again in a little bit. The snow is not motivating me. I have done some more research about the engine output signal, I will follow some steps to narrow it down. I do have a cracked wire I will replace at the Control Module. PaHonda do you have any other suggestions about the previous output signal code?

 

Definitely repair any broken wires. Does the car have an internal or external coil? Is there voltage on the blk/yel wire that goes to the ICM and coil when the key is turned to the II position?

What you can do is hook up a 12V test light across the the two leads to the coil (you are pretty much replacing the coil with the test light). Try to start the car, and see if the light flashes. It should flash.

That is a lot of codes coming from the transmission computer. Some of those codes are for the electrical connections for the transmission (shift solenoids, lockup solenoid, and gear position switch). I would reset the ECU by pulling the radio/backup fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. Try to start the car, and see what codes reappear.

 

I have disconnected battery now I am waiting. I have to pick up some wire to replace it with, probably will do that when someone can locate the power switch to the snow machine HA! I am assuming external it sits directly behind the distributor. Yes there is voltage.

 

The CEL code is back on (15.) I forgot to plug in the Main Relay. I had taken it out to test it again. The test resulted in a good relay via this information

http://techauto.awardspace.com/conte...mainrelay.html

I understand that the info is for a legend every time the website said Pin 4 I used Pin 6

Also same information on this site

http://techauto.tripod.com/

 

30 minutes later.......... I have hooked up battery and try checking for codes, None the check engine light comes on and stays on when I have the wires shorted. Then CEL light is off when they are not shorted. D4 light comes on briefly then goes off.

But when I first tried checking for codes at the begging I had the same thing so I will try again tomorrow.

I went out started the car heard a pop from the engine, but no start. I only heard the pop when I first tried to start the car once I reset the codes. I then shorted wires together and looked for codes, CEL was on and stayed on. I tried starting the car, no start and no codes.

 

Ok stil no codes, I am replacing wires today. Has anyone done this before? Any tricks? I think all the wires just run a few feet to a wiring harness. I will use a pick to remove the wire from harness, I don't think I have ever seen any of the little pins the wire crimps on to. Do I need to replace these, if so where can I get them. How did you do it?

 

PaHonda- you said to use a test light on the 2 leads for distributor can you explain a little more. I have three wires pluging into the coil and the 1 wire going out to distributor cap.

Wires replaced. Still no start. Is there a way to test the distributor. There was alot of dirt and oil and gunk around the distributor and under the starter. I read one post where a member had to replace his distributor because of an oil leak.