General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

'93 Accord Won't Start After EFI Relay Swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-01-2016 | 10:01 PM
NoMufflerNoProblem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
Default '93 Accord Won't Start After EFI Relay Swap

So, I've decided to bite the bullet here and ask for help. It's painful to have a beautiful car that doesn't run.

I've had her for about a year now. 230k on the odometer, and working A/C. Couldn't pass it up for the price that was offered. Well, fast forward a bit, and summer comes. Radiator blows, taking the head gasket with it. Fixed that and got it running again, no problem.

Then, middle of summer. All of a sudden, she's giving me trouble again, this time, with rough starts. Felt (and smelled) like I was running on two cylinders. However, this would only happen after letting it sit for a few minutes (like, going shopping). Crank it over, hold throttle open just enough to keep it alive, and it would clear up after a minute or two.

Well, she finally left me stranded. Had to tow her home because she refused to start. Next day, after getting her to start again, in the words of the Youtube great AvE, I did the 'ol jazzhands routine on the Gargler and was convinced that it had to be the main EFI relay. So, after hours of cursing my luck and bashing things around (and fitting a wrong part), I finally got the new EFI relay installed. And yet, the problem persists.

Take a plug out to check spark, and lo and behold, no spark at all, even grounded in the old shadetree mechanic way. Also, curiously enough, no smell of fuel.

So, I'm thinking a few things.
  1. Coil pack, which would be the easiest and cheapest fix
  2. Fuel Pump, which would be hell
  3. Main ECU

I'm trying to figure out what would be the more probable solution here. I really don't want to throw parts at it unless I absolutely have to. I would appreciate any feedback I get.
 
  #2  
Old 10-02-2016 | 07:51 AM
poorman212's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11,834
From: Kenton, TN
Default

When you first turn the key to "on"/pos_II, does the fuel pump prime for a few seconds. At the same time the CEL should come on and then go off.

Next, with the key still on, check for voltage on the BLK/YEL wire at the coil.
 
  #3  
Old 10-02-2016 | 12:23 PM
NoMufflerNoProblem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Originally Posted by poorman212
When you first turn the key to "on"/pos_II, does the fuel pump prime for a few seconds. At the same time the CEL should come on and then go off.

Next, with the key still on, check for voltage on the BLK/YEL wire at the coil.
Sadly, I can't test it right now- battery's dead and the slow charger's M.I.A.

If I remember correctly, the check engine light wasn't turning off after the new relay was installed. No sounds, but it seems like the new relay is a solid state type relay, instead of the old type with the moving parts.
 
  #4  
Old 10-02-2016 | 12:26 PM
PAhonda's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,995
From: Houston, TX
Default

Hmm, no spark and no fuel...

I'd suggest reinstalling the old main relay and see if your new part was bad out of the box. You should be able to just unplug the new relay and plug in the old one and leave it hanging there.

Another item to easily verify is to add some gasoline to the tank just to be sure your fuel gauge is working and you are not out of gas.

As for no spark, you'll need to start doing some testing with a volt meter or test light before replacing parts. The blk/yel wire going to the distributor and coil should have 12V when the key is in the II position.
 
  #5  
Old 10-02-2016 | 12:30 PM
NoMufflerNoProblem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Originally Posted by PAhonda
Hmm, no spark and no fuel...

I'd suggest reinstalling the old main relay and see if your new part was bad out of the box. You should be able to just unplug the new relay and plug in the old one and leave it hanging there.

Another item to easily verify is to add some gasoline to the tank just to be sure your fuel gauge is working and you are not out of gas.

As for no spark, you'll need to start doing some testing with a volt meter or test light before replacing parts. The blk/yel wire going to the distributor and coil should have 12V when the key is in the II position.
Well, if anything's worth a shot, it's that. I'll just have to get the battery charged again.

Tank's pretty much full, 'cuz I filled i up the day before it left me stranded.

Think what I'll do is test the coil pack first, because I really don't want to rip out that relay again unless I have to. I'll post results soon.
 
  #6  
Old 10-02-2016 | 12:55 PM
PAhonda's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 15,995
From: Houston, TX
Default

Here is a video on the main relay repair. He also talks about how to get the relay out easier about 1:30 into the video.

 
  #7  
Old 10-02-2016 | 11:02 PM
NoMufflerNoProblem's Avatar
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Thanks for the input, everyone. Figured out it was the ECU fuse. The one thing I didn't think to check. Still need to change the coil pack, because it's quite weak. Some new plug wires would be nice, too.

Thanks again!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Matthew Christopher Bucklin Sr.
General Tech Help
4
11-14-2012 09:07 PM
gpinstein
General Tech Help
3
02-20-2012 03:22 PM
workin4alivin
General Tech Help
2
11-01-2011 05:09 PM
big B
General Tech Help
0
04-10-2011 05:19 PM
drummerboy556
General Tech Help
5
05-20-2009 01:16 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:23 PM.