Had the timing belt on a 93 accord snap while on the highway. Had it towed in and got a copy of the replacement procedure from a mechanic and watched several youtube videos and checked and rechecked timing marks. I've got spark, not sure about compression yet, waiting to hear from a coworker about borrowing his compression tester.

I can feel puff puff puff from the exhaust while cranking though and it does have spark.

Here's a video of it cranking. I've got all the accessories off right now.


Thanks for your help

 

Welcome

bet the compression test will tell the answer.


I've a '92; any idea how many miles were on the old timing belt?

 

No clue, but it sheared off about 6 inches of teeth. The car just turned over 200k, it had 165k when I bought it so at a minimum 35k on the belt. I financed it a few years ago for a family member who was without a car. The T-Belt snapped while they were helping me move.

I think I found my problem but it's too late to check. I had #1 and #4 cylinders confused I set #4 to TDC when I put the belt on. Hopefully that only means it's just firing on the exhaust stroke and not banging hardware...

 

If the belt broke while the engine was running, you likely have bent valves. The compression test will verify.

 

good data, bet it was the original belt.
200K, 19 yrs = not bad, really pretty good.

 

Ok perhaps my memory wasn't as good as I thought, here's what the belt looked like. Also notice the bottom timing cover is pretty bad off.

 

if that engine runs, i'll be very surprised...the video sounds like a classic no compression situation. head will have to come off and if you are lucky none of the pistons will be broken.

 

Had a suggestion I read elsewhere... Pull the exhaust manifold and look at the stems.
Looks like I can pick up valves for 11 for intake and 12 for exhaust or I can pick up a junkyard head for 100 to 150 locally.

If I get a head I'm going to do the fill the cup with water trick and see if any drips out. I'll know this week on compression when I get the gauge.

Surprising to me still is this car (when it ran) still ran like a bat outta hell when you step on it and it passed its last emission test by a pretty good margin after I got the idle to sit still long enough. (I blocked off valve on the front and side of the PGM-FI intake with metal from a coffee can.) But I think I found the source of the vacuum leak. The bottom hose on the cruise control was crumbling.

Fully stock I can get the tires to break loose in first and I think second as well (Automatic trans.)

 

Well, while the head is off and that.

Sounds like you should clean/adjust the FITV and IAC...remove your "block off". Also plenty of time to inspect and replace any vac lines that might be "suspect".

I'd also go ahead and pull the "egr port plugs" from the intake and clean the ports.

All of this is a "you are there".....why not? These aren't an "if" it happens but a "when".

Pay close attention to the main ground on the t-stat housing upon install.

 

I can't get the stupid heat shield off, the metal AC lines are blocking it. Grr.