I'm stumped...engine cranks,no pop, have spark at plugs,have 35 psi fuel pressure,3 second burst and solid pressure while cranking, battery and ground good, codes 16(main Relay), installed new relay,new ign. control module, and fuel pressure reg. New cap,rotor,plugs.Timing looks good, belt ok.

Ignition control module was causing intermittent stalls after 20-30 min. Then car died for good. Took module to Autozone for test, passed until we heated it with hot air gun, passed again after it cooled....replaced.Car still will not start!!

Please advise, Thanks, Mark

 

Did the code return after replacing the ICM?

 

The code reads 16 now, didn't know how to pull code before replacing ICM, friend suggested to have it tested, we actually pulled the new one out and went back to Autozone to verify new one was good. We cleaned up bat terminals when we pulled old ICM, wouldn't that clear codes? Will codes come back up just from cranking?

Was reading that aftermarket ign. parts could be at fault so stopped at dealer and picked up cap, rotor, and wires but haven't installed yet-was hoping you guys had something I'm missing. Also read ignition switch could be the problem, I was assuming that was ok because we have spark.Don't know how to test for injector signal, but I did open every connection I could find and used dielectric grease hoping for a bad connect, they all looked good, no corrosion.

Thanks for your response, Mark

 

Code 16 could be the main relay, or it could be one of the injectors.

Get a volt meter. Unplug the electrical connector to each injector. Measure the resistance of each injector. It should be 1.5-2.5 ohms. Also, measure the voltage to each electrical connector. The wire color that is the same on all injector plugs should have 12V to ground. Dont use the other wire as the ground, use the neg battery post or a valve cover bolt as your ground for this test.

 

When I measure resistance on injector is that contact to contact or each contact to ground?

Thanks, when i check voltage to injector do I need to crank motor?

Is the other wire the trigger signal to open the injector? If it is can I check for signal?

What would be the issue if i'm not getting 12v or signal?

Not even getting a cough out of motor, I tried spraying flammable spray into intake - nothing....

If an injector was bad would it code out? I'm thinking motor would at least pop from good injectors.....

Heading out to install factory ign. parts first.....

Thanks for your input, Mark

 

New cap and rotor, injectors all show 12v, ohms good on all. Got it to sputter at first turn of key, then just starter rolling motor. repeat same result....

 

Pull 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse for a minute to clear the codes. Try to start. When it doesn't restart, recheck the codes. Look at the check engine light and the S light for flashing codes (if an automatic transmission).

On your car the injector always has 12V on one wire when the key is in the II position. The other wire is grounded by the engine computer to open the injector. Hooking up a 12V test light in place of the injector should cause that light to flash when you go to start the car.

There is an important ground on the thermostat housing that you should disconnect. Clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sand paper. Then reattach.

Once you do all that, check to see if it starts up. If not, I would move on to testing spark. A timing light is a quick way to test for spark (via induction) on each spark plug wire.

 

Ok cleared codes all injectors showing signal and 12v ground cleaned up no s code showing

pulled #1 plug to check spark, engine fired up running on three cyl. #1 plug out, put #1 back in, pulled 2 engine fired up on 3 cyl.again , same with 3 and 4 kept running till we shut it off each time good spark on every plug

Put all back together, will only run for 1-2 seconds no code

 

swapped plug wires with 97 accord, no change.

Why would motor run on 3 cyl.?? Only when any one plug is pulled....beyond me

Anybody come across anything like this???

 

Could it be O sensor sending lean signal to ECU, causing flooding? Plugs are wet when pulled.

Present status:

Good plugs and spark

timing belt checked, aligned

Fuel pressure good 38-40 psi, 2 second burst and steady pressure in start

New factory cap and rotor, wires good

Noid light good on each injector, constant 12 volt to each with key on

Was code 16,no code showing now

ICM confirmed good twice

Motor will run for 1-2 seconds

Thermostat ground removed and cleaned

Battery connections cleaned

Fuel injection rectifier proven good by installing in 97 accord