94 Accord Cranks but No Start
#1
Unregistered
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94 Accord Cranks but No Start
Hi, and thanks for reading and any help in advance.
'94 Accord EX which has the 2.2l 4cyl VTEC engine, automatic, ac.
Engine cranks, but does not start. To me, that means:
1. Fuel
2. Spark
3. Timing Belt
Here's what I did:
1. Fuel pump fuse good, I can hear the fuel pump run, and even though I couldn't find a pressure test port anywhere, I took off the nut at the end of the fuel rail (couldn't get pressure tester to thread on there.. Is there a Schroeder valve to test fuel pressure?) - and LOTS of fuel comes out of the fuel rail when the key is turned on. So to me, fuel seems OK.
2. Use an ignition tester to test for spark at each of the four spark plug wires.. and saw spark on all four. Removed spark plugs.. they're not new, but they are not gummed up and don't look too bad. So to me, spark seems Ok (should I still replace the plugs just for the fun of it?).
3. If I remove the oil fill cap at the top of the engine, and crank, I can see things moving in there. So to me, I think the timing belt is working. Is that valid?
Can anyone think of anything else to check? Are my tests valid (I fully admit to being a novice here!). Do I need to remove the distributor and check the ignition module or anything, even though I'm seeing spark with the tester? One other note - radiator was low, so I'm thinking possible head gasket, but he didn't report overheating, and I didn't see any water on the dipstick. I'll put a rad pressure tester on tonight and see what happens.
I'm just trying to help out my stepson and save him a bunch of bucks for a tow and repair.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
'94 Accord EX which has the 2.2l 4cyl VTEC engine, automatic, ac.
Engine cranks, but does not start. To me, that means:
1. Fuel
2. Spark
3. Timing Belt
Here's what I did:
1. Fuel pump fuse good, I can hear the fuel pump run, and even though I couldn't find a pressure test port anywhere, I took off the nut at the end of the fuel rail (couldn't get pressure tester to thread on there.. Is there a Schroeder valve to test fuel pressure?) - and LOTS of fuel comes out of the fuel rail when the key is turned on. So to me, fuel seems OK.
2. Use an ignition tester to test for spark at each of the four spark plug wires.. and saw spark on all four. Removed spark plugs.. they're not new, but they are not gummed up and don't look too bad. So to me, spark seems Ok (should I still replace the plugs just for the fun of it?).
3. If I remove the oil fill cap at the top of the engine, and crank, I can see things moving in there. So to me, I think the timing belt is working. Is that valid?
Can anyone think of anything else to check? Are my tests valid (I fully admit to being a novice here!). Do I need to remove the distributor and check the ignition module or anything, even though I'm seeing spark with the tester? One other note - radiator was low, so I'm thinking possible head gasket, but he didn't report overheating, and I didn't see any water on the dipstick. I'll put a rad pressure tester on tonight and see what happens.
I'm just trying to help out my stepson and save him a bunch of bucks for a tow and repair.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
#2
There's a funky double bolt on the top of the fuel filter, where a gauge would go. Still need an adapter tho.
But more to the point, having fuel pressure doesn't prove that the injectors are firing. Unplug the injectors. Each one has one wire that's the same color for all injectors (black/yellow?) That one should have battery voltage when the key is turned on. Check that next.
Get some starter spray, or carb cleaner. Remove the big rubber air intake hose & spray some into the throttle body when trying to start. If it starts for a moment, then your spark & cam are OK.
But more to the point, having fuel pressure doesn't prove that the injectors are firing. Unplug the injectors. Each one has one wire that's the same color for all injectors (black/yellow?) That one should have battery voltage when the key is turned on. Check that next.
Get some starter spray, or carb cleaner. Remove the big rubber air intake hose & spray some into the throttle body when trying to start. If it starts for a moment, then your spark & cam are OK.
Last edited by JimBlake; 06-29-2009 at 05:05 PM.
#3
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*Update*
I had read somewhere that I should try to start the car holding the gas pedal all the way down, I think eliminating the possibility of a stuck injector. This worked! It slowly started up, and seems to run fine.
I guess that means we need to run some fuel injector cleaner through for a while...? We'll see if that clears it up, or if I need to replace the injectors at some point.
Jim - Thanks for the reply... you were on the right track leading to the injectors, which I had missed.
Steve
I guess that means we need to run some fuel injector cleaner through for a while...? We'll see if that clears it up, or if I need to replace the injectors at some point.
Jim - Thanks for the reply... you were on the right track leading to the injectors, which I had missed.
Steve
#4
Strange, because holding the gas pedal all the way down DISABLES the injectors. That feature is intended to clear a flooded engine. So I guess that means it was flooded? If it keeps happening, you need to figure out why it keeps flooding. Fuel injector cleaner sounds like a good idea.
#5
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
My theory is that there is an injector stuck open, and as soon as I turn the key on, it starts flooding the cylinder with fuel. Disabling the injectors gives it a chance to clear the flood, and I guess as soon as the motor started, the injector freed up and started working properly.
Doesn't exactly make sense, but close I think. We'll see if it happens again after dosing with cleaner several times.. maybe new injectors are in our future.
Thanks
Doesn't exactly make sense, but close I think. We'll see if it happens again after dosing with cleaner several times.. maybe new injectors are in our future.
Thanks
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