94 Accord EXi A/T 4cyl. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
#1
94 Accord EXi A/T 4cyl. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
Im new to the forum and really not sure how to navigate.
I have a 94 accord EXi 4cyl. a/t. When the car is in park or neutral, there seems to be nothing wrong. I can rev the engine fine. Once i get in gear (D4) the car gets up to 1400-1500rpm and then bogs down and will not go any further.
I have checked and cleaned or replaced the IACV, the EGR Valve (ive seen alot of threads referring to EGR ports but cant seem to locate them on the manifold. There is no Plate or plugged ports) plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, and fuel filter.
The check engine light use to come on only after driving at speeds in excess of 60kph. I jumped wires for the CEL light as shown in DIY diagram. However when i turn key to position II, the CEL is solid no blinks....
Checked ALL fuses under hood and in car, all are ok
As of now i dont know if CEL comes on while driving, i cant really drive it as when i go into drive, there is no power. If i put the car in neutral and rev up to 2000-3000rpm then pop into drive then the car starts to go. but as soon as i let off gas, the rpms drop all the way down to 200-300 and car sputters with no power
the oil pressure light does not come on when i turn the key to position II
I have asked numerous people, honda owners, techs, mechanics no one seems to be able to solve this
I have a 94 accord EXi 4cyl. a/t. When the car is in park or neutral, there seems to be nothing wrong. I can rev the engine fine. Once i get in gear (D4) the car gets up to 1400-1500rpm and then bogs down and will not go any further.
I have checked and cleaned or replaced the IACV, the EGR Valve (ive seen alot of threads referring to EGR ports but cant seem to locate them on the manifold. There is no Plate or plugged ports) plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, and fuel filter.
The check engine light use to come on only after driving at speeds in excess of 60kph. I jumped wires for the CEL light as shown in DIY diagram. However when i turn key to position II, the CEL is solid no blinks....
Checked ALL fuses under hood and in car, all are ok
As of now i dont know if CEL comes on while driving, i cant really drive it as when i go into drive, there is no power. If i put the car in neutral and rev up to 2000-3000rpm then pop into drive then the car starts to go. but as soon as i let off gas, the rpms drop all the way down to 200-300 and car sputters with no power
the oil pressure light does not come on when i turn the key to position II
I have asked numerous people, honda owners, techs, mechanics no one seems to be able to solve this
#2
There is a write up in the "Common DIY Threads" sticky at the top of this section that will walk you thru the egr chamber cleaning.
Please re-check the #1 10amp fuse in the underdash panel...does the CEL come on for a few seconds when you turn the key on/pos II ?
Please re-check the #1 10amp fuse in the underdash panel...does the CEL come on for a few seconds when you turn the key on/pos II ?
#4
Please do not create new threads and bump your old threads with the same question.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-7/help-46675/
Adding a bunch of explanation points will not get you a response any faster.
It is kinda rude.
There are a lot of great people here who are very willing to give you free help but acting like you are owed a response instantly to your problem is just wrong.
And the answer you don't want to hear is most likely the real answer, your transmission is done. It will need replacing or rebuilding.
If you take the time to search here and other Honda boards you will see that there are almost no instances of an auto transmission once it starts giving problems of it being easily fixed. It sucks but that it the truth.
We give the advice out to drain and flush the transmission and clean the solenoids, but that very rarely ever helps.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-7/help-46675/
Adding a bunch of explanation points will not get you a response any faster.
It is kinda rude.
There are a lot of great people here who are very willing to give you free help but acting like you are owed a response instantly to your problem is just wrong.
And the answer you don't want to hear is most likely the real answer, your transmission is done. It will need replacing or rebuilding.
If you take the time to search here and other Honda boards you will see that there are almost no instances of an auto transmission once it starts giving problems of it being easily fixed. It sucks but that it the truth.
We give the advice out to drain and flush the transmission and clean the solenoids, but that very rarely ever helps.
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