I'm also having a problem similar to this with a 94 accord ex has the vtec 2.2l, I notice my idle is low maybe 200 at times but other times its fine. BUT when I reach 3 grand it starts to sputter and the check engine light comes on. I just bought the accord yesterday figured it would be a good learner. I have some experience but not alot any advice? Also my instrument panel light doesn't work. I figured it was a blown bulb because the indicator lights work turn signal ac light all that good stuff. Today a bought something to plug into my lighter that would light the dash but found out I get no power to that either. This leaves me thinking it's a fuse or dimmer hopefully instead of the bulb now. I haven't had time to check yet but would you all agree or should I check else where.

 

Zombsta - open the thread on top of the gen tech help forum called common diy threads. Open the thread about checking engine codes. Post the code on here. There is also a link for shop manuals where you can download a 94 shop manual.

The electrical problem sounds like a blown fuse. There is a fuse box under the driver's dash and one in the engine bay that you should check. Hopefully the fuse doesn't keep blowing once you replace it. If it does, you will have to start narrowing down the short that is drawing too much power.

 

I'm not sure if I did this right but I followed the instructions when the engine came on however it stayed on. Does this mean error code 10 which is the IAT? Also today leaving my girlfriends house it started perfectly drove it no more than a mile to have auto run the error code "Didn't realise they couldn't do it in 95's and below". When I went to leave the car wouldn't start, waited about 15 and it started.

 

When you short the connector, turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. If the check engine light stays turned on, then no codes are stored.

What is specifically happening when you turn the key to start the car? Does the starter spin the engine, or does nothing happen?

I am also going to copy your posts into a new thread in the gen tech help section, because this belongs in that forum.

 

Well the first time I tried it was right after the car wouldn't start at auto zone I let it turn over 5 to 6 times then tried again for about 15 minutes but the check engine light never came on I even pushed it past 3 grand to see if it would come back on. The car has started fine besides that. Tonight on the drive home the light came back on so I figure now would be the time to test it and got 21 but I didn't get the sputtering this time around 3 rpm as i did last night, when it sputtered I also smelt a bit of gas.

 

Are you sure the idle is 200? Take a close look at the lines on the tachometer. The first large line is usually 500. Notice how the halves are and notice how the numbers sit over the large lines and how 0 is floating over no line. That first large line is actually between 0 and 1000, it's 500.

 

I can't really recall now I just know it was below the half of zero to one because I believe there is a mark for 750 I thought or maybe I'm just remembering wrong. The idling seems to fluctuate. Tomorrow I was planning on cleaning the vtec solenoid and check for anything bare broken or loose. Maybe give it some sea foam do you all think that would help? The only problem I've been facing now is it being hesitant to start, I will listen for the pump to prime as well. I thank you all for helping too, I bought this car to learn more about engines as you can tell I don't have much experience. I've worked on my trucks engine before but I still have a lot to learn.

 

The engine computer will save the code, so the check engine light does not have to be turned on for you to get the code in the future.

Check that the electrical connection to the vtec solenoid and pressure switch isn't corroded or dirty. The code 21 is dealing with the one pin connector on top. The other item you should check is the oil level. That vtec solenoid is driven by oil pressure, but low oil pressure would give you a different code. It still can't hurt to check though.

That 94 shop manual I referenced before has a resistance test you can try on the solenoid. It is on page 6-4.

 

I just changed the oil, so I think it was the sensor. I pulled the green one which was what was shown when I looked it up unless that's the pressure sensor but I cleaned it and haven't noticed any problems yet hopefully that fixed it.

 

My 94 lx coupe with the 5 speed had a hesitation problem accelerating through all RPMs. Turned out the guy I bought it from didn't have the throttle body timing set correctly. Took it to a shop and now it's no longer a problem.