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94 Accord stalled, will crank but won't turn over. D4 is blinking. I've got the codes

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  #1  
Old 08-12-2012 | 07:50 PM
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Question 94 Accord stalled, will crank but won't turn over. D4 is blinking. I've got the codes

I hope I'm posting this is the right section.

1994 Honda Accord EX 2.2 Vtec Automatic

I'm going to try and be as detailed as possible. I recently bought my car less than 2 months ago. Its my 1st Honda. It has roughly 150,000 miles on it. The day I bought it the speedometer went out. It would randomly work and then quit. It was replaced with a used one a week later by the guy I bought the car from. No more problems with that.

When coming to a stop the brakes thump and rumble and the brake peddle vibrates. The car stops but not properly. Not a huge concern to me at this point.

I was on my way home 2 weeks ago and the car seemed to be driving ok. I had the a/c on and I noticed this strong numbing smell shoot putt of my a/c vents. It was a chemical smell of some sort. Simultaneously I heard a click and looked down at the dash and saw it was my CEL / engine light that had just come on. The RPM's dropped from about 1500 to 0 and the car died. I was able to coast into a driveway. I tried to start it. Out would crank but not turn over. I had it towed home.

For about the week prior to it stalling I had let the gas get really low to the point where the fuel light would come on. I would only put in $5 or so. Not a good thing to do I know. The light came on probably 5-7 times.

So after it was towed home I tried starting it. Still turns over but won't crank up. I noticed the D4 light flashing. So I used a paper clip as a jumper wire to read the codes. The engine light is still on but does not flash.
The transmission codes I pulled were:
1, 8, 13 & 14.

After reading several fourms I decided to change out the main fuel pump relay thinking that was my problem. Didn't solve the issue. Still doing the exact same thing. I also checked the distributor cap and rotor, they look good and seem to be pretty new; no cracks or burn marks or anything.

I read somewhere where someone had these exact same 4 code errors. He pulled the main breaker 7.5 fuse from under the hood and replaced it after 20 seconds and it cleared codes 13 & 14. I tried this and sure enough it cleared those same codes from my car as well... Until I tried to start it again. Now I have all 4 codes again. I have also removed the negative battery cable for 20 minutes but the codes are still the same.

So I know its throwing out shift solenoid error codes but it doesn't seem to me like that would cause the car to stall and not crank. It seems like a fuel problem to me.

Any ides?

Sorry for any spelling errors there might be, my phone is pretty stupid for being a smart phone.
 
  #2  
Old 08-12-2012 | 08:06 PM
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The code 13 and 14 are pointing towards a faulty ECU.

Also, you said the check engine light is turning on, but you must have not had any codes flash (did the check engine light stay on the whole time you were reading codes)?
 
  #3  
Old 08-12-2012 | 08:16 PM
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What is ECU?
Yes the engine light comes on when the ignition is in the on position but does not blink or flash.
 
  #4  
Old 08-12-2012 | 08:34 PM
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I checked the ECU fuse under the hood as well as under the drives side kick panel. I also checked the file pump fuse and even switched them around with known working fuses of the same voltage. D4 is still flashing and still won't turn over. :/
 
  #5  
Old 08-12-2012 | 08:57 PM
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The ECU is the engine control unit. It is the engine computer.

If you go to a site like car-part.com you can search for used ECUs from junkyards by price or distance. You may be able to find a cheap one in your area.
 
  #6  
Old 08-12-2012 | 09:59 PM
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How much would you estimate this repair to cost at a shop. Just ballpark.
 
  #7  
Old 08-12-2012 | 10:06 PM
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Actually replacing the ECU is very simple. If you pull back the carpet on the passenger floorboard towards the front of the car, the ECU is bolted to that metal piece.

Most of the cost will be for the replacement ECU. If you go to car-part.com, you can search for junkyards for that part by price or distance. You may find a cheap one nearby.

A new ECU from a Honda dealership will be very expensive.
 
  #8  
Old 08-13-2012 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Crystal
I was on my way home 2 weeks ago and the car seemed to be driving ok. I had the a/c on and I noticed this strong numbing smell shoot putt of my a/c vents. It was a chemical smell of some sort. Simultaneously I heard a click and looked down at the dash and saw it was my CEL / engine light that had just come on. The RPM's dropped from about 1500 to 0 and the car died. I was able to coast into a driveway. I tried to start it. Out would crank but not turn over. I had it towed home.

Sorry for any spelling errors there might be, my phone is pretty stupid for being a smart phone.
Do me a favor and turn the key to on/pos II and check to see if you are getting 12v to the BLK/YEL wire going into the distributor. I'm wondering if the ign switch (electrical part) burnt up - the "smoke"/smell.

As for spelling....I know I can't spell so don't worry with that too much here. We worry more about helping people solve issues than spelling errors
 
  #9  
Old 08-13-2012 | 03:28 PM
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PAhonda... Is there a way to test the ECU to know for sure its not working properly?
Also is that interchangeable with 94-97 year models?

Poorman212... If it was the ignition switch is it still possible for it to throw our those 4 error codes?
 
  #10  
Old 08-13-2012 | 03:36 PM
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What I'm saying is, the car won't start. What is missing........spark, fuel or both. Usually a TCU code or fault will not prevent the engine from running.
 



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