I have been battling a 95 Honda accord ex automatic 305000 miles- egr issue ever since I changed my head gasket out 9 months ago (which took me several trys mainly because when i checked the replacement head for straightness my old one was straighter). I have pulled the egr plate and cleaned the ports (twice) as well as replaced the egr itself and it is actually worse (hesitation) with the new egr valve. Today I plugged the egr and vacuum line and guess what no hesitation although it pings a lot more. Do I need to clean it again- I used a drill bit and went all the way to the bottom on all 4 ports- or with this many miles further diss assemble is required. Any information is appreciated.

 

Might be splitting hairs but there are 5 ports....one from the valve, then one to each intake runner?

Are you getting codes for the egr or guessing it is the ports. Most of the time one this gen the ports being clogged will not set a code.

 

Did you clean out the maze under the EGR plate?

Check the vacuum hoses going from the EGR valve to the vacuum control on the driver's side of the engine. I believe the vacuum hose is stamped with the number 16.

The 95 didn't have a code for clogged EGR ports. The engine computer will just detect the EGR valve is not lifting up enough (or lifting too much). This is done by the vacuum controls.

 

How do you know for certain your issue is egr related ?

 

I believe it is egr because when I bypass the egr by disconnecting the vaccum I do not get any hesitation but I do get an error code and engine light. I cleaned the plate and all the ports as well as the egr port itself new gaskets and egr valve. It might be third times the charm thing. It is the only option left I was just wondering if a complete breakdown and blasting everything was necessary. I followed the directions on utube by ericthecarguy very thorough I thought just had to buy some new orings for fuel injectors did not have any silicone grease and still can't find any at any stores. Those orings are expensive and I am o t looking forward to doing this again and having similair results would almost rather do head gasket at least you get some satisfaction that the timing is right

 

So you have no codes.

Does this happen all the times, engine cold or warm. About what rpm range do you feel this at.

As PA asked, the "runners" in the plate need to be clean, when I last did the 95 I needed a flat head screw driver to get all of that junk out.

3M sells silicone paste in a can with a brush top, I know what I paid for mine but that is a different stroy, some places might sell those small packets like a "one job brake lube" size. The top injector o-rings are just over $2 a piece from the dealer.

EDIT: and I have to ask if the tune up items are up to date? Also what brand plugs are installed.

 

Replaced plugs wires and cover on distributor (unnecessarily) I believe it is egr because it does not hesitate at all with it plugged bypassed, The symptoms are egr -ish hesitation in drive between 2000 and 2700 rpm smooths out at over 2800 rpm. Because it is fixed with a non active egr this must be it. I will try cleaning it again. I vacuumed the ports last time -this time I will do the compressed air. I did not want to push anything through the engine but I am not going to worry this time. Hope it works keep you posted. My dealer wanted 12 bucks a piece for those o rings.

 

I never said to replace, just asked it they were up to date and brand of plugs.....and now might also ask of the gap of plugs.

Also asked if you have any codes. Does this happen when cold or warm.

I had the egr issue with my 94 EX auto just this summer (mine was at ~380K then),- cleaned the ports and chamber and all was good. Don't take this the wrong way but the more I read this thread the more I do not believe it is the egr ports, yes you unplug the egr and don't have the issue but I'm thinking this is because of something else.

You replaced the head gasket, why? What are the compression readings of all four cyl's now.


Find another dealer....91301-PM7-003 is the part number for the o-ring. Google the part number and see what people are charging.

 

I ended up buying o rings from parts store- still 6 bucks for the kit but this is my daily driver so ponied up for 3 new ones (overtightened them on first cleaning)
I guess I will order the silicone paste from amazon that is the only place I have found it so far. The hesitation only happens when it is warmed up at the previously mentioned rpm. Replaced head gasket because it was leaking antifreeze. The oil burning is much less as well after new head gasket. The ports were completely blocked I thought that I may have loosened some of the crud (during the head gasket change) enough in the egr to cause the hesitation -since it will not hesitate with a completely blocked system. I have not checked the compression but all plugs look good and oil burning is virtually non existent. Head was in great shape level and the valves were all within spec. Not much carbon on valves and very little sludge on the cams and top of the head. Really have had zero problems with this car in the last 14 years and 250000 miles. I have put about 10000 miles on it hesitating and 1000 with the egr blocked and no hesitation. NO codes before the egr block and engine light and code now which I assume is the egr code because it is bypassed.

 

Apply a vacuum directly to the EGR valve port on a warm, idling engine. Does the engine stall or run rough?