95 Accord LX - Clunk/jerk with shifting.
#11
01-17-2011, 12:16 PM
Thank you, TexasHonda: I did see that shift linkage adjustment is possible, and didn't correct my previous post. Thanks for pointing out how important that can be with RPM surges during upshifts. That's exactly what it's doing. I see that it's shifting at the proper speed, but there is a last-second RPM-throttle increase before the completion of the upshift, even with steady pedal pressure, which makes it feel like it's jumping up, so it then has to come back down to the next higher gear, if that makes sense. Very annoying, and I'm developing anticipation anxiety along with it. I have online manuals you mentioned, and another as well, and will check it today, if it stops raining long enough.
Poorman212: I've read about beneficial fluid changes, and will definitely do that as well, on my own, with only Honda fluid. I read in earlier posts just what you said, that 'it may take several fluid changes' as well. Only, are you sure that fluid changes in high mileage trannys won't result in reduced performance or operation? I recall thinking I was doing a favor for my previous, 94 Buick Park Avenue, by getting a tranny flush-n-fill done professionally @ 175K miles, and noticeable, detrimental effects arose soon after. Something about the transmission seals getting used to the old fluid, or whatever. Just what I heard. My 96 Accord has @ 130K miles now.
Thank you!
Poorman212: I've read about beneficial fluid changes, and will definitely do that as well, on my own, with only Honda fluid. I read in earlier posts just what you said, that 'it may take several fluid changes' as well. Only, are you sure that fluid changes in high mileage trannys won't result in reduced performance or operation? I recall thinking I was doing a favor for my previous, 94 Buick Park Avenue, by getting a tranny flush-n-fill done professionally @ 175K miles, and noticeable, detrimental effects arose soon after. Something about the transmission seals getting used to the old fluid, or whatever. Just what I heard. My 96 Accord has @ 130K miles now.
Thank you!
good luck
#12
01-23-2011, 10:33 PM
Thanks, TexasHonda. Your 'nursing the shift points' advice is reassuring, and what I'd already been doing somewhat, and I hoped it was helping. Of course, it was the stop-n-go traffic that causes so much frustration, due to the repetative 1-2-1's 
!!!
Good News: Yesterday, I took a look at the throttle control cable for possible adjustment, and found 2 things outta whack. The cable was not being held by one of the engine bay attachment clips about midway out from throttle (so I reattached it), and locknut B (lower one) on the throttle control cable was loose. I had already removed stop ball on lower cable, and loosened locknut A, then merely retightened both locknuts.
During the 1st test-drive, I saw a major decrease in my jerk/hard shifting problem...at least 50% better. Real test will come Monday, with Houston traffic.
Next I'll drain/fill AT fluid at least 2x w/ the Honda ATF I bought, but first I gotta get that PITA! drain plug broke free. PbBlaster+breaker bar should do it.
As for now, my 1st Grade son said, "Daddy, your car drives real smooth," w/o my prompting, so it's not troubling anymore.
!!!Good News: Yesterday, I took a look at the throttle control cable for possible adjustment, and found 2 things outta whack. The cable was not being held by one of the engine bay attachment clips about midway out from throttle (so I reattached it), and locknut B (lower one) on the throttle control cable was loose. I had already removed stop ball on lower cable, and loosened locknut A, then merely retightened both locknuts.
During the 1st test-drive, I saw a major decrease in my jerk/hard shifting problem...at least 50% better. Real test will come Monday, with Houston traffic.
Next I'll drain/fill AT fluid at least 2x w/ the Honda ATF I bought, but first I gotta get that PITA! drain plug broke free. PbBlaster+breaker bar should do it.
As for now, my 1st Grade son said, "Daddy, your car drives real smooth," w/o my prompting, so it's not troubling anymore.
#13
01-28-2011, 01:34 AM
That Did It !!!
So I finally drained and replaced the A/T fluid with Honda Z1, + I added between 1/4 cup-1/2 cup of Lucas Transmission Oil fix, and the result is OUTSTANDING !!!. Absolutely NO! rough shifts WHATSOEVER! While I respect the nature of the suspension-fluid operation of automatic transmissions, I cannot believe that I've achieved a virtual 100% complete fix from just a fluid change! I did find average, gunked-up metal shavings on the magnetic trans-fluid drain plug, and the fluid wasn't "new", so maybe a real good fluid change was all that she needed.......THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!!!!!!!!
Difference in shift points, 1-2: Pedal to the floor, not even noticeable. Granny-Ma accel: noticeable, but only compared to "better than any standard stick out there", and without harsh bump AT ALL!
2-3: Barely mentionable now as a problem, and
3-4: I can't always confirm that I HAVE A 4TH GEAR, and when I can, its only really noticeable during the auto overdrive down-shift.
Its a new transmission as far as I'm concerned. Problem solved, 300%.
Totally amazing !!!!!!!!!!!! Its like BUTTA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Difference in shift points, 1-2: Pedal to the floor, not even noticeable. Granny-Ma accel: noticeable, but only compared to "better than any standard stick out there", and without harsh bump AT ALL!
2-3: Barely mentionable now as a problem, and
3-4: I can't always confirm that I HAVE A 4TH GEAR, and when I can, its only really noticeable during the auto overdrive down-shift.
Its a new transmission as far as I'm concerned. Problem solved, 300%.
Totally amazing !!!!!!!!!!!! Its like BUTTA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#15
03-03-2011, 12:54 PM
Links?
I am new here to these forums. I recently bought a 95 accord 2 door with automatic transmission. This rough shifting happens in the car, but it is not all that bad. I also have to get a new HVAC control unit. Having the manuals would really help. I have read here that there are manuals in the DIY section, but I have looked, and not found them.
Can someone please post me a link for the manual? Thanks!
Can someone please post me a link for the manual? Thanks!
#16
03-03-2011, 06:54 PM
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ead.php?t=4597
It's on first page, but you have to set the date range (bottom of page) to Beginning to see all the posts.
good luck
It's on first page, but you have to set the date range (bottom of page) to Beginning to see all the posts.
good luck
#17
03-05-2011, 09:14 AM
One of these days I'm going to try this, seems like it's a pretty good way to do it and a more efficient way to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPA...18F11F7AC5166A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPA...18F11F7AC5166A
#18
03-05-2011, 10:10 AM
One of these days I'm going to try this, seems like it's a pretty good way to do it and a more efficient way to do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPA...18F11F7AC5166A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPA...18F11F7AC5166A
It can be a challenge to determine which ATF coolant line is the supply and which is return.
Best procedure is to remove the return hose from radiator, and connect recovery line to radiator nipple. Then blow gently into return hose end to push remaining old fluid into reservoir.
I found that you have to be nimble to do this alone by cranking, displacing 1-2 qts, shutdown, and replenish ATF reservoir until recovery fluid is clear. I've read of some who simply run engine until the AT hydraulic pump runs dry. This might be OK, but I chose not to try this.
good luck
#19
03-10-2011, 05:41 AM
technically what needs to be done is install a pressure guage at all the points that get tested on an automatic. line pressure should be checked at pump, 1rst and reverse, second, to third, and third to fourth. the guage installs where you see a bolt that needs a ten mm wrench to remove. you will find this procedure in the service manuel. IF the pump is worn you will have low line pressure. this could be cause. the clutch packs could have axcesive tollerences. there is a pressure port to check that. your torque converter could be the problem. Bottom line. replace the transmission and be done with it.
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