yeah i havent had a chance to check the rotor out because i dont have anyone to turn the key for me since the car isnt at my house yet when you say to look at the came lobes you mean while someone is cranking the motor right? there was plenty of oil up there when i took the valve cover off so i dont think that is the problem [hopefully] but a friend of mine is going to come help me out tomorrow and hopefully well get this thing straightened out now that i have the manual downloaded.

 

I believe the timing belt drives the oil pump on this model/year. So I would lean towrads something in the recent timing belt change (45 minutes after picking up the car?). please verify that the belt is still attached

 

You can take note of rotor position then crank and check if it moved.

 

Seeing you already had the valve cover off, take it off again. Remember where the camshaft is sitting and then turn the motor to TDC by lining up the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the plastic cover, the cam should have moved. Then look at the camshaft pulley, the back side has a groove on each side (180 degrees), both grooves should make a parallel line with the top of the head. At this point you can take off the distributer cap, the rotor should point to cylinder one. If these are good then your engine is still timed properly.

 

My 94 coupe is doing the same thing. Only if i let it set for a bit it fires back up and runs. Sometimes for a few minutes and sometimes for many miles. After putting a new ignition coil on it I made it 30 miles and it died again. Are ignition control modules that prone to going out on these? It seems to act up once the engine is good and warmed up.

 

Being an electronic component the ICM can be prone to temperature issues as can the other sensors in the distributor. With a bit of patience, you may be able to narrow it down with a can of freeze spray. You can test these components but will only find the issue during a no start condition. Intermittent problems are a pain. Is the CEL on? If so get the code pulled, it may tell you where to look. Search around on this site, there's some good posts on the ICM.

 

Turns out it was the ICM. I was gettin power to the coil and there is a yellow wire with a green tracer that is used to signal the ECM ignition output from the ICM. I tested that wire and did not have battery voltage present. Which ruled out the possibility if the problem being the ECM. Only thing left was the ICM.

 

ok well i finally got a chance to check on the car and i had my brother crank it while i was watching the rotor is not turning and i took the valve cover back off and it doesent look like the cam is moving either even when i turned the crank manually the timing belt is on tight does that mean that i seized the cam? i was thinking maybe the oil pick up is bad change that and put some new oil in and maybe it will loosen back up? or is that just wishful thinking?

 

If you could turn the cam by hand, then it might not be seized.

There is a key that holds the crank pulley and the two gears that drive the timing/balance belt. That may have broken or come out? You may have to remove the crank pulley bolt and the lower TB cover to see what is going on.

The crank shaft could have broken near the crank pulley too.

 

Quote: "the car has 127000 miles on it the timing belt is brand new unless he installed it incorrectly but i dont think so because i was driving the car for about 45 minutes before it cut off and it was running smoothly"

I would have it towed back to the shop that "just replaced" the belt........