The thing is, if it'll start AND run on starting fluid, the ECU is good, the ignition system is good, and mechanically, the engine is good (it's still in time). If you can hear the pump run at all, it's good. This leaves you with either no power to the injectors, or no power coming out of the main relay to the engine systems(injectors).
Right now, since you've added a push button to start it, this means you've got more testing to do, so you can narrow it down a little further. If it still had the original ignition switch set up (no push button added), then I'd say the switch was still good. Yes, they can fail, but they do so intermittantly, and you can actually hold the key a certain way to keep it running. When the switch fails, it shuts down the engine (even starting fluid won't allow it to run) by killing power to the ignition coil. Right now yours is working, since it runs on starting fluid.

 

You definitely have a fuel problem.

The pump running doesn't mean that it is providing enough fuel pressure. The injectors may not be firing for several reasons (ECU, wiring, power missing at the injectors). You still need to test to figure out which.

Fuel pressure is probably the easiest test, but you need to find a pressure tester that will thread into the access port on the fuel rail. Maybe the parts stores pressure testing kits they loan out has the proper fitting.

If you have a volt meter, see if you have power going to each injector with the key in the II position. The wire color you want to test will be the same on each injector and I think it is red. For ground, use a valve cover bolt. The other color wire at each injector is grounded by the ECU to open the injector.

 

Thanks PAHonda! I'll test for power to the injectors tomorrow since I can't find my volt meter I'll borrow my dads. ��


And I didn't install the push button, I bought the car the way it is with the existing problems. But hey, it was $300...can't complain too much. Hopefully I'll have it figured out this weekend and get this thing on the road (it's time to park my si)

 

The ignition switch only has a couple circuits. If that were the problem, you wouldn't have spark - and you apparently have spark to ignite the starting fluid.

Certainly check power to the injectors. But if they don't have power, it's in their circuits not the ignition switch.

 

Check the resistance of the injector resistor. Terminal 1 is power so check between no. 1 and 2, 3, 5 and 6. Each should be between 5 and 7 ohms. If there is no power to terminal 1 with the key in the RUN position then fix power issue. It is not uncommon for the resistor to fail.

 

This was what I was trying to get across. I ran into this myself only a couple of months ago on my own car. In my case, the PO told me he thought the fuel pump was dieing, but it started right up for me after having been sitting for 3 weeks to a month (wouldn't start for him in that time frame). I drove it home, and the next day it wouldn't start. I chased the entire electrical system for a month, until I finally found I didn't have power to the injector resistor pack. The resistor pack did ohm out just fine, but no 12 volts going to it. Once I brought power over to it, it fired right up and ran just fine.

 

Just wondering, where did you run 12v from the the power wire of the resistor box? Ignition 12v?

 

Hey guys, ive been steadily checking things off the list of what my problem could be.
Main relay - good
Fuel pump - good (only when using a power probe)
Injectors - not working (haven't figured out why)
Ecu - haven't figured out what exactly I need to test
Injector resistor pack - good
Ignition switch is still a question mark since it still has push button crap
Fuel pressure - good

Any help on what specifically I should test in the ecu to tell if that is my problem or any other ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

I could not find where you have verified 12V power to the injectors. Power should always be available. Injector fires when a ground signal is sent to injector by ECM. Both power and ground can be confirmed w/ a noid light hooked to injector/s.

good luck