Hello all. I was complaining about bogging issues before, then said I fixed them when I adjusted my distributor timing... I guess I was wrong. If I want to pull out into an intersection it just kinda goes "Blaaaaaaaaah" then gets going... when you pull out onto a 60mph road with cross traffic that doesn't stop, it's a bit terrifying when no matter how far down your foot goes you're doing about 3mph... after a few times I have realized that you can't just make your foot lead and expect to go with this issue, there is a way to make it kinda go by lightly accelerating and progressively getting harder on the gas to go, but that's getting obnoxious, and driving an A/T like it's a manual is also obnoxious. The car has almost no power until 4,000 rpm, doesn't like holding speed in D4 (takes a bit to hold it at 60mph, about 1/4-1/2 throttle, which is wonderful for fuel economy).

I've been meaning to get it timed via timing light, but I don't know how to use one really. (Never used one, I know my way around a wrench, but being 17 I don't know it all). However, my distributor is adjusted almost all the counter-clockwise, with about 1/4cm until it's fully locked on the adjusters... If I run out of adjustment, what do I do then?

I've been driving my parents cars for the past few days, and apparently my fathers getting pissed because I haven't figured this issue out.... any help is appreciated.

 

Does this happen all of the time? Does the check engine light turn on while driving?

Did you do any work (maintenance or repair) right before you started having this problem?

 

If you want to check the timing and have the tool, we can walk you thru it.

Please answer PA's questions first.

 

Yes, I have the CEL is on. Haven't gotten to seeing the code yet. Got a timing light tomorrow, will put it on tomorrow and check the timing. My mechanic friend should be able to help me figure it out, but is there something I need to know to tell him? What should I set the little degrees number to on the light?

Also yes, this is right after a head swap. Previous timing belt snapped and bent valves in the old head. Decided it wasn't worth it to replace the valves alone and went with a salvage head from another Accord... never checked if it was an LX or EX though...

 

Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. There is a link on how to check engine codes. Read then post the code on here to start narrowing down the problem.

Also, when you go to time the car, you need to jump that service connector like you would do to check codes. That prevents the engine computer from adjusting the timing electronically while you are mechanically adjusting the timing.

 

The replacement head has to match as far as VTEC or non-VTEC. Right?

You asked about the advance setting on your timing light. When adjusting spark timing, there's a set of notches in the crankshaft pulley. One notch by itself is at TDC. The set of 3 notches are at the proper timing advance, so looking at those notches you leave the dial set to ZERO. Of the set of three, they show the correct timing along with the tolerance + & -.

 

Well we got the timing light hooked up, and set the light to 15 degrees (There was a sticker on the hood that said 15 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees at engine idle). At the top of the cam, it was perfect up with the distributor moved all the way counter clockwise until it bottomed out. It doesn't bog nearly as much, and I can actually drive it in D4 without it hesitating at speed. But it still bogs for a split second at intersections.

I found out what the CEL was. It was code 58, TDC sensor #2. Could that also explain some of this timing issue? Where would that be located? Maybe I never plugged it back in after the head installation.

I also wonder if the bogging could be due to my exhaust leak, I have a pretty nice leak right at the cat from getting air off some train tracks some time ago (before the head swap)

 

Also, I should mention I THINK it was code 58. We checked a few times... the order was 8 short blinks, and then 5 long blinks. We were a bit terrified because the SRS light was flashing, and me and my buddies don't have good luck with airbags haha.

Also also, I don't know if it was 4 or 5 long blinks. There were 4 long blinks for sure, but the fifth didn't seem quite as long as the previous four. Does the shorter blink mean end of codes, so was it code 48 or code 58?

 

I don't get what you're saying about the timing light on the cam?? FIRST you have to make sure the camshaft is timed correctly. Then check/adjust your spark timing.

You don't use a timing light to set the camshaft timing. You do that simply with the marks. Turn the crankshaft (forward only) to line up the marks. Look at the crankshaft pulley and find the notches. One notch by itself is TDC, it lines up with a pointer molded into the plastic lower timing cover. Then there's a set of 3 notches close together - those are located at 15° +/-2.

1) Turn the crankshaft forward until the arrow on the camshaft sprocket is getting close to pointing upwards.
2) Turn the crankshaft forward to line up the SINGLE NOTCH in the pulley alongside the pointer. This puts the engine at the position of TDC in the compression stroke of cylinder #1.
3) Now look at the camshaft sprocket. The arrow is pointing near upwards, but not perfectly. The REAL timing marks are 2 little dimples out at the teeth of the sprocket at 3-oclock & 9-oclock.. Those are supposed to line up with the top edge of the head, or the top edge of the backing plate between sprocket & head.
4) If you need to adjust the camshaft timing, you loosen the tensioner & skip the belt one way or the other & retighten the tensioner. Then rotate the engine through a couple of revolutions & check the marks again.

Now you fix your spark timing using the timing light.
1) Hook up the light to the #1 sparkplug wire.
2) Start the engine & let it warm up completely.
3) Jumper the SCS connector - same as if you're reading error codes.
4a) Set your timing light to ZERO and shine it at the crank pulley. Adjust the distributor so the SET OF THREE timing marks are lined up - these are already at 15° so they are for a timing light without any advance dial.
4b) Or... you can set the timing light to 15° and then adjust for the SINGLE notch on the pulley.

 

Was that code (58 or whatever) in the check-engine light blinking? Or was it the ABS light blinking? That's important to know which light...

Seems like 4 long & 1 short flash is code 41...? That's the preheater for the oxygen sensor (if it's the CEL).