95 Coupe Bogs, Excessive Fuel Consumption
#21
10-27-2012, 11:56 AM
Yes, that's the sensor for code 41. Unplug it & measure resistance between the 2 same-color (black?) wires. Should be 10 to 40 ohms. Normally its a bad sensor, but measure it in case the problem is in the car's wiring.
I don't know about needing a new distributor. I'm still not 100% confident that you're measuring the spark timing correctly. You mention the arrow on the cam sprocket, but that's often 20 degrees off. Look for the dimples in the cam sprocket and use your timing light to shine on those.
If you were to install that lower cover, the timing marks are still there. Very top & center of the photo, there's 2 posts. Kinda like an iron gunsight, the top one is a V & the bottom is a post. And the notches in the pulley are probably 1/16" deep. They won't wear off.
Another thought... one way for the pulley to rub like that is if the rubber part is coming loose. That's not a solid steel pulley; there's a layer of rubber for vibration damping. Sometimes that begins slipping. Make a mark with white paint or chalk or something, from the "hub" of the pulley right out to the rim. After driving awhile, check if it's moved.
I don't know about needing a new distributor. I'm still not 100% confident that you're measuring the spark timing correctly. You mention the arrow on the cam sprocket, but that's often 20 degrees off. Look for the dimples in the cam sprocket and use your timing light to shine on those.
If you were to install that lower cover, the timing marks are still there. Very top & center of the photo, there's 2 posts. Kinda like an iron gunsight, the top one is a V & the bottom is a post. And the notches in the pulley are probably 1/16" deep. They won't wear off.
Another thought... one way for the pulley to rub like that is if the rubber part is coming loose. That's not a solid steel pulley; there's a layer of rubber for vibration damping. Sometimes that begins slipping. Make a mark with white paint or chalk or something, from the "hub" of the pulley right out to the rim. After driving awhile, check if it's moved.
I jumped the connector today and started the car whilst taking my video, which did as EricTheCarGuy said it would, take the computers want to electronically advance/retard the timing because as soon as I did that the car started running like **** again... I wonder what I'm going to have to do for this issue...
My buddy that works at advance auto said it was a crank sensor, and it's $111.
#22
10-27-2012, 12:21 PM
Just me here....forget the timing for now......address the CODES first, then lets come back to the timing.
Clear the codes, pull fuse or cables. Be sure you have the radio code if OE.
Which ones come back?
Clear the codes, pull fuse or cables. Be sure you have the radio code if OE.
Which ones come back?
#23
10-27-2012, 08:45 PM
Well, those posts on the lower timing cover aren't technically the timing MARKS. But you use them like a sight, view through the "V" and lined up with the post below it. When you do that, you'll be looking at the edge of the pulley. One the edge of the pulley you look for notches cut into the edge.
Like Poorman says, get the error codes.
Like Poorman says, get the error codes.
#24
10-29-2012, 10:03 AM
I'll do that tonight. Which fuse is the fuse to reset the codes? It's like AGP or something like that right?
#25
10-29-2012, 11:05 AM
In the underhood fuse box.....I think it is labeled "Clock/ECU" or something like that.
Again if you have the OE radio, you will need to have the code to get it to work again.
The reason I'm suggesting this, the codes you have/had can and will cause the car to act the way it is. So no need in checking the timong until they are taken care of.
Again if you have the OE radio, you will need to have the code to get it to work again.
The reason I'm suggesting this, the codes you have/had can and will cause the car to act the way it is. So no need in checking the timong until they are taken care of.
#26
10-29-2012, 02:17 PM
In the underhood fuse box.....I think it is labeled "Clock/ECU" or something like that.
Again if you have the OE radio, you will need to have the code to get it to work again.
The reason I'm suggesting this, the codes you have/had can and will cause the car to act the way it is. So no need in checking the timong until they are taken care of.
Again if you have the OE radio, you will need to have the code to get it to work again.
The reason I'm suggesting this, the codes you have/had can and will cause the car to act the way it is. So no need in checking the timong until they are taken care of.
#27
10-29-2012, 02:34 PM
On the factory radio's, they had a security feature. I think, been wrong before, this started with the 5th gens (94 and up). Whenever power to the OE radio is lost (pull the fuse, replace a battery, ect), you have to enter the "code" for the radio before it will work.
Again, with my 95 and still with the 07 Pilot this is true.
Do a simple search on Honda Radio codes and see how many "hits" show up.
Again, my point. The code 9 and or the code 41 you reported can/will make the car act just as the title of this thread states.
So, clear the ECU, run the car. If they both come back or only one comes back....we'll address the code(s) first....then once that is done and no codes come back and you are still having issues.....we'll address those. I'm going to bet, once we fix/get rid of the codes you will not have any issues with the car.
Again, with my 95 and still with the 07 Pilot this is true.
Do a simple search on Honda Radio codes and see how many "hits" show up.
Again, my point. The code 9 and or the code 41 you reported can/will make the car act just as the title of this thread states.
So, clear the ECU, run the car. If they both come back or only one comes back....we'll address the code(s) first....then once that is done and no codes come back and you are still having issues.....we'll address those. I'm going to bet, once we fix/get rid of the codes you will not have any issues with the car.
#29
10-31-2012, 10:36 AM
Still haven't been able to pulling that fuse. I'll do it tonight fersure. Yesterday was nuts, I broke a tooth and almost got sprayed by a skunk. Have had better days. Hopefully my luck turns tonight and I will get my car running right again.
#30
10-31-2012, 12:04 PM
Ouch,,,,,that doesn't sound fun......
You can do the fuse or the battery cable, either way.
Where I was wanting to go/know - do both codes come back or just one. One could have been set long ago and addressed or a "one time" thing. Don't want to chase something that has already been fixed
You can do the fuse or the battery cable, either way.
Where I was wanting to go/know - do both codes come back or just one. One could have been set long ago and addressed or a "one time" thing. Don't want to chase something that has already been fixed