My 1995 Accord EX Vtec died on the way home the other day. Would not restart. I let it sit about 5 minutes and tried again, started right up. Drove about 2 miles, died. Repeat this about 2 more times and I made it home. I started it later and it ran fine but I didn't let in run more than a few minutes.

I jumped code checker with a paper clip got codes 4 & 14.

Anybody?

 

If the codes were flashed by the check engine light.

Code 4 points towards the crank position sensor or the wiring/signal.
Code 14 points towards the idle air control valve or wiring/signal.

The two codes don't seem like they should be related. Was your check engine light on before the car started stalling out?

 

No, I just checked to see what codes I would get anyway.

I checked last night and ran it about 15-20 minutes in the drive way, nothing happened but I noticed the heat level rose a little high and when I checked it needed some fluid (1/2 gallon) in the radiator. I remember the heat gauge was not showing high when it died so I don't think that should be related.

I also tried jiggling the key as someone suggested in a post about ignition switch causing similar problems, that didn't do anything either

 

Seems like you have several problems going on. For the radiator, you likely have a leak. You can get a radiator pressure tester and put about 15 psi on the radiator and try to find the leak when the engine is cold.

As for the codes/stalling. Pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute to clear all the codes. Then run the engine until the check engine light turns on and/or your car stalls out. Then recheck your codes.

 

OK, I tried just running it one day last week and it ran fine. Next day or two later , cranked it and it almost immediately died. Cranked several times, it would run a minute at most and die again. Yesterday tried pulling the fuse as you suggested, put it back in and cranked, would not crank, (fuel pump would not come on and check engine light would not go off). This morning I put the key in and it cranked right up, repeated several times.
I'm thinking from what I've read here it's either the fuel pump going bad, or the relay going bad, or the computer going bad. Do main fuel relays go bad slowly or usually all at once?
Any ideas?

 

The check engine light would not turn off for the bulb check? What codes did you get this time?

 

The check engine light would not turn off when I put the key in and turned to the start position, because the fuel pump did not come on, like happens when the main fuel relay is bad. The next day it did turn off within a few seconds as it is supposed to and the car cranked. I did not try to pull codes yet, I will do that this evening when I get home and see what it says. My gut says it must be the fuel pump, because it's the original one from 1995. I replaced the fuel filter a couple years ago when I had similar problems, and bought a new MFR, but the problem then turned out to be the computer, (ECU I think they call it), I replaced that and was back on the road again.

 

I don't think the problem is with your fuel pump, so don't plan on replacing it.

This seems like an ECU problem to me, because the ECU essentially controls the main relay. To determine the problem, you really should use a volt meter to figure out why the fuel pump is not turning on.

 

My 95 accord does the same exact thing. I bought it a few weeks ago with the assumption it needed a fuel pump. It won't start with power to the fuel pump and pump running. Check engine light does not go off either. I've been trying to figure this out for weeks. How much is an ecu for these cars?

 

You need an ECU that matches your 95 EX, so you'll need the 94/95 EX for either an automatic or manual transmission. Unless you are driving the V6 accord?

You'll have to shop around. Probably can get a cheap one at a u-pull-it yard. Car-part.com searches salvage yards and gives prices.

You should make sure you car does not have any stored codes before replacing.