95 throwing abs code 5-2.
#1
95 throwing abs code 5-2.
Ok so did a swap in my 95 accord . I put a 97 accord vtec and switched the automatic trans to 5 speed. So my car started having the tachometer jump erratically and then will loose power or jurk. Ive had it completely die driving down the road and had to pull over. Ive changed spark plugs and wires. Distributor and cap 02 sensor up and down stream. Ignition switch and a few other things i just dont know what to think. Abs is throw a 5-2 code yes i checked it 4 times same code and the ecu is throwing 20. Help some one else have this issue
#2
I'm going to move this to General Tech, because the "new member" area is mostly for welcome & introduction posts.
How did you deal with the 1997 engine being OBD-2 while the car is OBD-1?
Is the car an LX or EX? (IOW did the car come with a VTEC engine?) If it's LX, how did you handle the VTEC actuation?
How did you deal with the 1997 engine being OBD-2 while the car is OBD-1?
Is the car an LX or EX? (IOW did the car come with a VTEC engine?) If it's LX, how did you handle the VTEC actuation?
#3
Let us know what JimBlake as asking on what was swapped aside from the engine. Also, what happened to your 95 accord that required an engine swap.
A code 20 is an issue with the electrical load detector. The problem could be a something electrically detected by the ELD or the ELD itself. I would avoid swapping out parts until you do some troubleshooting.
A code 20 is an issue with the electrical load detector. The problem could be a something electrically detected by the ELD or the ELD itself. I would avoid swapping out parts until you do some troubleshooting.
#4
I'm going to move this to General Tech, because the "new member" area is mostly for welcome & introduction posts.
How did you deal with the 1997 engine being OBD-2 while the car is OBD-1?
Is the car an LX or EX? (IOW did the car come with a VTEC engine?) If it's LX, how did you handle the VTEC actuation?
How did you deal with the 1997 engine being OBD-2 while the car is OBD-1?
Is the car an LX or EX? (IOW did the car come with a VTEC engine?) If it's LX, how did you handle the VTEC actuation?
#6
I looked on Majestic's site and found the ECM should be P0H or P0A (for a 1995 sedan EX with manual trans). But the P0A is discontinued. I don't know the 5th-gen as well as some other people, but maybe there's a reason the P0A was dropped??
But since it worked well at first, makes me think of something flaky with the wiring. What about parts of the wiring harness getting damaged while the engines were taken out & in? Cut insulation might take awhile before water or corrosion get to the point of causing problems. Unfortunately that's a horribly tedious job to check all that out.
edit:
Good for you swapping the old distributor, because the OBD-2 distributor from the 1997 would not have the right wiring. But it just dawned on me the 1995 VTEC distributor might be different from the 1995 non-VTEC one??
But since it worked well at first, makes me think of something flaky with the wiring. What about parts of the wiring harness getting damaged while the engines were taken out & in? Cut insulation might take awhile before water or corrosion get to the point of causing problems. Unfortunately that's a horribly tedious job to check all that out.
edit:
Good for you swapping the old distributor, because the OBD-2 distributor from the 1997 would not have the right wiring. But it just dawned on me the 1995 VTEC distributor might be different from the 1995 non-VTEC one??
Last edited by JimBlake; 01-13-2021 at 09:47 AM.
#7
OK, the distributor is different between 1995 LX and EX. The EX used a Hitachi and the LX used a TEC. I don't have any way to know if they work in the opposite engine. If someone has a shop manual for 1995 maybe there's some way to know from there.
#8
Lorrie - I hope that most members wouldn't treat you differently knowing that you are a gal. If you experience any issues with members on here, send a moderator a message and we will likely ban any offenders on here.
How long did the car drive great until you started having problems?
What is the full part number for your ECU? It should be 37820-P0A-XXX.
If you have a shop manual for your car, look up the location of G101. I attached a pic. That is an important ground that is bolted to the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Make sure that the eyelet and bolt are clean and you have a solid connection. Since you swapped the engine, check the wire as much as possible to see if it got damaged.
G101
How long did the car drive great until you started having problems?
What is the full part number for your ECU? It should be 37820-P0A-XXX.
If you have a shop manual for your car, look up the location of G101. I attached a pic. That is an important ground that is bolted to the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Make sure that the eyelet and bolt are clean and you have a solid connection. Since you swapped the engine, check the wire as much as possible to see if it got damaged.
G101
#9
Reply
Lorrie - I hope that most members wouldn't treat you differently knowing that you are a gal. If you experience any issues with members on here, send a moderator a message and we will likely ban any offenders on here.
How long did the car drive great until you started having problems?
What is the full part number for your ECU? It should be 37820-P0A-XXX.
If you have a shop manual for your car, look up the location of G101. I attached a pic. That is an important ground that is bolted to the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Make sure that the eyelet and bolt are clean and you have a solid connection. Since you swapped the engine, check the wire as much as possible to see if it got damaged.
G101
How long did the car drive great until you started having problems?
What is the full part number for your ECU? It should be 37820-P0A-XXX.
If you have a shop manual for your car, look up the location of G101. I attached a pic. That is an important ground that is bolted to the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. Make sure that the eyelet and bolt are clean and you have a solid connection. Since you swapped the engine, check the wire as much as possible to see if it got damaged.
G101
#10
Inspect any wiring harness modifications, since the car was running well for a few months.
I'll look at the ELD circuit, but let us know the voltage at the fuse box + and - wires when the engine is off and when running.
If you have the free 94 shop manual that is available on the web or purchased one, locate and clean every ground you can find in the engine bay. Also clean the connectors for the battery posts.
I'll look at the ELD circuit, but let us know the voltage at the fuse box + and - wires when the engine is off and when running.
If you have the free 94 shop manual that is available on the web or purchased one, locate and clean every ground you can find in the engine bay. Also clean the connectors for the battery posts.