96 Accord bleeding oil like crazy
#21
I would call it the front balance shaft seal. You will also want the front balance shaft seal retainer.
There are some other shaft seals that may need replaced. There is also an o-ring behind the rear balance shaft gear that you may want to replace.
There are some other shaft seals that may need replaced. There is also an o-ring behind the rear balance shaft gear that you may want to replace.
#23
I hope posting links on here isn't a no-no... if so, I apologize in advance. How does a kit like this look?
Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit Honda Accord DX LX Only (1994 1995 1996 1997): Automotive
Seems like it's got all the goodies, and the parts seem like quality brands too... any thoughts?
Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit Honda Accord DX LX Only (1994 1995 1996 1997): Automotive
Seems like it's got all the goodies, and the parts seem like quality brands too... any thoughts?
#24
It appears that this kit has it all for a very reasonable price. Now the question is, do you have the mechanical ability and tools to install this kit without damaging your engine? That crankshaft pully bolt is TIGHT! I have to use a special holder to keep the crank from turning plus a 3/4" drive 19mm heavy duty socket with about 4 foot of leverage to break that baby loose.
#26
It appears that this kit has it all for a very reasonable price. Now the question is, do you have the mechanical ability and tools to install this kit without damaging your engine? That crankshaft pully bolt is TIGHT! I have to use a special holder to keep the crank from turning plus a 3/4" drive 19mm heavy duty socket with about 4 foot of leverage to break that baby loose.
I'm still a bit confused about what type of breaker bar setup to get. From reading FAQs on my Civic engine, this is about the jist of what I need though, yes?
#27
Wow, you beat me to it. Would that make more sense to use than the removal tool I mentioned? The belt has been done once at 90k miles, so hopefully that means less torque is needed for removal...
Last edited by noiseordinance; 03-22-2012 at 10:02 AM.
#29
I don't unfortunately. My friend has one, but since this thing leaks oil so fast, I can't really get it out of my parking lot, so I'm stuck with manual tools.
So if I use one of the pulley bolt removal tools, do I essentially need two breaker bars? Or can I use my little 12" socket wrench to hold the pulley bolt tool in place, and a single breaker bar with pipe to pull off the bolt?
So if I use one of the pulley bolt removal tools, do I essentially need two breaker bars? Or can I use my little 12" socket wrench to hold the pulley bolt tool in place, and a single breaker bar with pipe to pull off the bolt?
Last edited by noiseordinance; 03-22-2012 at 03:26 PM.
#30
You need two, 1/2" x 16-18" breaker bars. One to engage the restraint tool and other to turn a 1/2"x19mm deep socket through the restraint tool. You will also need a 3-4 ft, 1" cheater pipe to provide additional leverage on the socket to break the bolt loose. You will need to pull 150-200 lbs on 3-4 ft leverage to generate 600+ ft-lbs torque.
Heating the bolt head and washer for 3-5 mins w/ propane torch will help. I've used this w/ a good 1/2" air impact (600 ft-lbs) to break an even tighter crankshaft bolt on my Acura MDX (3.5L V6).
Note, someone mentioned a 3/4" drive x 19mm socket, but the OD of this socket will not fit through the restraint tool. I know this from trying.
good luck
Heating the bolt head and washer for 3-5 mins w/ propane torch will help. I've used this w/ a good 1/2" air impact (600 ft-lbs) to break an even tighter crankshaft bolt on my Acura MDX (3.5L V6).
Note, someone mentioned a 3/4" drive x 19mm socket, but the OD of this socket will not fit through the restraint tool. I know this from trying.
good luck